Scenery Experiment -- First Layers With "Ground Goop"

In my last post I left off with some new landforms in place drying between the trestle and box factory areas. Since I'm experimenting with "ground goop" in this first area to have ground cover applied, the next step, after the plaster dries, is to paint the stark white plaster cloth with my earth color, a flat latex paint. The point of this is to make sure none of the white can show through later layers. Also, before applying the "ground goop," I try to protect the track, backdrop painting, and and other areas such as, in this case, where the background box company building is going to sit with blue tape and wax paper.

"Ground goop" is a concoction popularized by Lou Sassi in his scenery books and videos. It is made up of:
+ one part vermiculite (home and garden store: Home Depot))
+ one part CelluClay (art or craft store: Hobby Lobby)
+ one part flat brown latex paint (paint store: Sherwin Williams)
+ two thirds part white glue (art or craft store: Hobby Lobby)
+ one capful of concentrated Lysol (Dollar Store)

Mixing it up in a sealable container allows the unused potion to be saved for later use. Adding the Lysol prevents mold from growing. After it is mixed, it should be the consistency of peanut butter. I add a few teaspoons of water, if it is too thick initially.

Applying a thin layer of "ground goop" works best with an artist's pallet knife and accomplishes several goals. It covers the gauze pattern of the plaster cloth, hides any gaps or patterns from the plywood, provides a surfaced in which to imbed plaster "rocks," creates a naturally irregular surface, and allows me to treat mainline and non mainline tracks differently. In an earlier post and an even earlier post I discussed differentiating the different kinds of trackage. In addition to rail size and tie regularity, I can use the "ground goop" to emphasize the differences. To do this I can spread the "ground goop" gradually right up to the top of the cork on the siding, so it will appear that the track is laid directly on the ground. On the mainline, I leave a narrow "ditch" of uncovered plywood and create a bank opposite the edge of the cork emphasizing mainline drainage.

Following the techniques that Mr. Sassi suggests, I can apply my first layer of ground cover right over the freshly applied "ground goop." No need to let it dry! My choice for initial ground cover materials includes medium sifted real dirt, tube sand, and several Woodland Scenics products: Fine Turf--Earth, Blended Turf--Green Blend, and Course Turf--Light Green. I have a standard procedure for applying ground cover. I sprinkle on a layer of real dirt and the Fine  Turf--Earth over most areas. I spoon on a layer of tube sand and its small rocks under rock castings and along the base of any cuts before pinching a small amount of the green blend foam in some areas. Then, after wetting the ground cover with 70% isopropyl alcohol, I use an eyedropper to flood the area with Woodland Scenic's Scenic Cement. (One could use thinned artist's acrylic matte medium or even thinned white glue.) Then to add a bit of variety, I placed a few pinches of the course turf in a few areas.

For the most part, I am quite pleased with the "ground goop" experiment, both for creating a natural irregular surface and for helping to differentiate between mainline and sidings. Applying a base layer of ground cover as I go also seems like a time saver. This section is ready for track ballasting and the addition of trees, buildings, static  grass, or other additional textures.

On the other hand, one minor problem with the "ground goop" is that some of the vermiculite particles don't absorb the brown paint and their light, almost metallic, color telegraphs through. The worst of this can be hidden later with clump foliage or static grass clumps; adding additional texture is a good thing! Also, I am not that happy with the closest layer of backdrop painting in this area of the layout. The green in the backdrop trees don't "go with" the ground foam colors I am using. While the short ridge disguises the right angle between baseboard and backdrop, the painted trees directly behind it will need to be redone as I develop the plan for the 3D trees on the ridge.

3D Landforms -- Another Technique

Base landform added between the trestle and box company

Over the past three months I have been involved with the Meadville Model Railroad Club as an adult mentor/instructor. The young people there have been building a Woodland Scenics "Grand Valley" layout kit, and I thought I would try out one of the techniques from there on the 4th Subdivision and one of my T-Trak modules. Essentially, this technique is a hardshell technique with plaster cloth over wadded newspaper held in place with masking tape.

This is quite similar to the technique in an earlier post, only with the newspaper and masking tape instead of cardboard webbing. The first step is to crumble or "pillow" the newspaper and then tape it in place with a web of masking tape to form the land rising from the plywood flats. In the back, I want a slight rise to hide the ninety degree edge between the backdrop and the plywood. In the front, I want to have an undulating surface for the scenery. Before applying the plaster cloth, it is advisable to protect nearby surfaces. To accomplish this I taped over the painted track and cork underlayment with blue painter's tape. I also taped some wax paper over the backdrop.


The next step is to apply the plaster cloth. I have found it easiest to precut some strips or rectangles of the plaster cloth appropriate to the size I am covering. Then, I briefly dip each through water in a paint tray and apply over the newspaper. I overlap the next strip over the first strip before smoothing the joint lightly with my finger. As the newspaper is covered, I also smooth down the gauze on the plywood. In the photo, one can see the strips ready to apply to the newspaper in the back as well as the finished section in the front. The plaster gauze needs to dry until it no longer feels damp or cold, usually over night.

Depending on the techniques to follow, the next step could be to add a layer of Sculptamold to hide the gauze pattern or to paint over the dried gauze before adding Ground Goop. Ground Goop will be the topic of another post, which I hope to do much sooner than the gap from the last post!