Can't Decide? Start Both

In a recent post, I left off undecided about whether to continue with work at the end of Ferndale Junction Yard or to return to infrastructure work. Instead of deciding, I started both. In this past week I became a little bit sidetracked (literally, as I have been putting together the new edition of my NMRA division's newsletter, the Susquehanna Sidetracks). My wife and I were just invited to her brother's last minute vacation in Maine, so both projects will be on hold. I am posting a status report and a punch list, so I'll be ready to resume on our return.

The main infrastructure project that I wanted to work on was to continue with floor painting. I took down the temporary workbench on folding sawhorses and moved the folding cart and storage tubs from under the Nooksack/East Branch section of the railroad. I vacuumed and washed the floor before tackling the painting. Sadly, I don't think that I will get to the second coat before we leave, but  it's ready for that second coat and storage organization. 

Here at the drop-down section at the end of the yard, I haven't made much progress on the removable coved backdrop section beyond taking some measurements. I did however work on the roadbed, which is now glued in place. I hit a bit of a snag though with laying track; I didn't have enough to extend all the tracks. I ordered what I hope is enough, but it just arrived. On our return I can get back to completing the track work and wiring. 

In addition to the trackwork on the dropdown section, I still have some work to do to complete the new runaround track:

• Prep the turnout
• Solder an extension to the runaround
• Add feeders and fit the runaround
• Decide on technique for drop down track wiring and gaps
• Mind the gap at the power district junction

Phase Two Modules In Place

 

Many of the initial next steps for the new module mentioned in my last post are now in place. I leveled, shimmed, and bolted this module to the Nooksack module. I drove a couple of screws through the L-girder ledger into the grid frame and bolted the one leg into place as well. In this photo, one can see a length of track that I fit onto the end of the module before soldering the track joiners. As the phase two modules make up a second power district, I left a gap between the rails at the module joint and attached this end of the DCC bus to a second circuit breaker.

Again, I mentioned a number of steps to take while the Ferndale Junction module was up on the sawhorse workbench in my last post. In this photo you can see those steps completed: bus wires flagged with correct colors, piano hinge installed, frog juicer attached, and all existing DCC and frog feeders connected. 

While not as firmly in place, the Ferndale Junction module is level and bolted to the adjacent new module. I have started working out the location for the turnouts for the run-around track, so I can install the roadbed. I want to focus on the roadbed and track for the run-around as well as track between these two newly installed modules in order to finalize the wiring enough to run some trial trains. I will need to make sure the two  turnouts on the new module are set up properly as well as the ones on the run-around. 

My intention is to add a bit of an extension to the benchwork here at the connection between the modules. The mainline will be curving away here to the left, and for phase two, I hope to attach my three-track unsceniced staging mini module here. This will require some additional template making and track planning. At the far end, I still need to finalize the drop down segment of the yard. It is hinged to ease future access to the well plumbing and tank.

Here at the far end with the drop down section, I will need to design a removable extension of the backdrop incorporating a curved or coved approach. That should be an "interesting" project! I also need to figure out how to hang the light fixture for this end. This area of the ceiling is a little different, so I don't have convenient furring strips from which to hang the fixture. 

I hope to continue with the level of enthusiasm and focus I have had recently in order to actually get the railroad back on track, the theme for 2026. I don't think a train has run in a year!

Phase Two Modules update

Once I installed the backdrop, some real progress on the modules is possible, and dare I say it, underway. My wife helped me, and we moved the new module into place on the L-girder ledger and up against the Nooksack section. We got it leveled and clamped it and its leg into place. 

Initial Next Steps For New Module

• Shim at ledger corner with Nooksack module
• Bolts at south end
• Holes drilled for DCC bus to attach to circuit breaker
• Double check level and bolt leg
• A couple of screws to attach to L-girder
• Complete mainline track to Nooksack module (gap at joint--new power district)
• Adjust tortoise music wire at turnouts for proper operation
• Double check electrical plan and connect DCC bus

Start Work on Ferndale Junction Module

With the new module up in place, we moved the Ferndale Junction modules to the temporary sawhorse workbench and clamped it up on its side. I hadn't noticed this before, but by turning the module around (the back is now the front) the wire color code is incorrect. My standard is for black to be out towards the aisle and red to be in towards the back of the benchwork. In this section that is reversed. 

I don't want to redo the wiring, but I do need to avoid future confusion with the wire colors. I will mark the wires with the correct colored tape. On inspection, I have several other steps that I can complete more easily while the modules are here on the workbench. 

• Use red and black electrical tape to mark the existing bus and feeder wires
• Install the frog juicer and connect green feeder wires
• Add a piano hinge to the joint between the two modules
• Add a Euro terminal strip to connect existing feeders to DCC bus at removed programming track switches

The plan for Ferndale Junction includes a fair amount of new trackwork. I will finalize that once it is in place. As I am not sure yet whether that will be a permanent or temporary placement, I might as well do what I can now!

Ingleton and New Module Updates

Ingleton shelf ready for "action"

While it has been awhile since my last post, some work here in the basement has gone on. In addition to helping my wife with gardening and rewilding, I have been getting some things done. I cut, painted, and installed a "baseboard" for the stud wall behind Ingleton, and I installed a hardboard valance above the shelf. While the long term plan for this area is to be the final TOMA section, a harbor scene, for now I want to try out the design concept for a valance here to both hide the LED light fixture and suggest a a more finished presentation of the scene. My feeling is that I'm ready to either bring out some rolling stock for trial operations or renew scenery work here on this independent shelf layout. 

Although I am not that far along with the new module, some progress has been made there as well. I moved through the first phase of trackwork and wiring starting with the two turnouts. They are both in place and soldered to a short spacer between them with frog feeders and feeders in the spacer dropped. In addition to drilling holes for the feeders, I cut slots in the roadbed and plywood below the throw bars so that the spring wires from the switch machines can later be installed.

Once the turnouts were in place, I added a full length of flex track to the main with feeders dropped and temporarily fastened everything in place with a couple of track spikes. Then I turned the module up on its side and installed the DCC bus. I went ahead and attached the power feeders with suitcase connectors. The next step while the frame is still up on its side will be to wire and install the Tortoise switch motors. I found that I do have the two necessary switch motors, but they may not have long enough spring wires. 

My thinking now is that I want to get a lot of the work done under the module, before mounting it in place. Before mounting it, I should extend the backdrop behind it. Once it is in place, it will be time to prep and paint another section of the basement floor. To keep up with our plans outside, I need to put in a fair amount of time teaming with my wife on those projects, but I can still make progress with the railroads. 

New Module -- Roadbed and Track, Part 1

The roadbed jigsaw pieces fit together

 In my last post, I mentioned next steps as working on the new module as well as completing some infrastructure work. I have, for the most part, focused on the new module in the last couple of weeks. However, before moving the module back to the sawhorses, I gathered up some of the tools and materials from the train room expansion projects and moved them out to the garage. In doing so, I was able to liberate the red work cart for actually working on the railroad. 

The puzzle is underway

I ended up piecing the roadbed together from a variety of materials. I had some cork on hand, but not enough to complete the whole module. I ordered some Walthers closed cell foam roadbed when I first ordered supplies for this project. Also, I found that I had one piece of cork turnout pad. Remembering my experience reclaiming modules, I used Elmer's white glue instead of Weldbond in case I would need to make changes. Again, I used a combination of nailing, clamping, and weighting to affix the roadbed materials. 

Putty in the gaps

With the assortment of types of roadbed and methods of attaching it, I had a bit of a learning curve. As I moved forward, I continued to double check with the track markings and the track itself. Facing turnouts and the full width foam were both new to me, so finding the one turnout pad in my bin of track parts helped. Clicking to enlarge the photos, one can see the pice of cork that I cut to fill a void. I traced the odd shape on a piece of paper and used it as a template. While it took a few days to fit the jigsaw pieces of roadbed together, it all came together. In this photo, I had just finished filling gaps in the roadbed and the screw divots with putty. 

The trackwork starts with the turnouts

With the roadbed in place and the cork painted an initial gray color, it was time to move on to starting the track and wiring. I started with the Peco turnouts. I have discussed prepping Peco turnouts before such as here or here. At this point I have isolated the frog and have a feeder soldered that will later run to the Tortoise switch machines. As I am using the switch machines on these two turnouts, I also removed the tiny spring in the turnouts. Back in my modular railroading days in Seattle, we discovered the possibility of creating shorts with the spring in place when using switch motors to change polarity. 

Now it is time to move on with fitting the track together and dropping feeders. As I solder the feeders under the rail as I lay the track, these two steps are taken together, rather than the typical lay track and then add feeders. I may take a brief break in working on this new module, as I will be prepping for a group clinic on weathering without an airbrush at my NMRA division's next in-person meeting.

TOMA Phase Two: New Module & Next Steps

Underside of the new module

The new module's benchwork is complete. Since my last post I completed the process of glueing and screwing the plywood top to the framework. After the glue dried, I drilled some holes through the framework to later run wiring. I also cut and glued on some wood spacers to support the fascia once it is time for that step. After those dried I went ahead and primed the underside with a latex primer. 

Now that the benchwork construction of this new module is complete, I revisited the penciled in track plan on its plywood top and started test fitting the track and roadbed. When I ordered track, turnouts, and roadbed a few months ago, cork roadbed was not available, so I went ahead and purchased some of the new Walthers closed foam roadbed. I also purchased Peco flex track, which I hadn't used before. Since I am using Peco turnouts, it makes sense to use their Code 83 flex track as well. 

By temporarily clamping the new module in place, I not only identified a slight angled gap between the modules, but I was also able to accurately position the end of the roadbed. In working with the Walthers roadbed, I found it to be less forgiving, perhaps because it is full width, with curving easily. I cut a small straight piece to glue in place here at the junction with the existing benchwork, ensuring that the subtle s-curve going through the fill would be from one length of the roadbed. Walthers says it can be glued, but does not specify what type of glue. I tried Weldbond. 

After the Weldbond dries, I will unclamp and move the new module back to the sawhorses to more easily work on finishing installation of roadbed along with the track and electrical work. I will need to review prepping the Peco turnouts before pre assembling the turnout section. Along with installing the trackwork, I will want to at least start some of the electrical work such as the track feeders and DCC bus with the underside easily accessible. Unlike the track and roadbed components which I ordered ahead of time, I'd better check my supply of switch machines and wire. I also have some infrastructure work to complete: hardboard for the backdrop and a new LED fixture for lighting will need to be purchased and installed as well as prepping and painting the floor before permanently bolting the module into place.  

Staying on Track: Nooksack Switch Control Redo

 

NP interchange, one of the new control touch toggles

In a post last fall, I discussed changing from a control panel to individual controls for the switch machines in the turnouts in and around Nooksack, thinking that it would be a more prototypical approach. In a post earlier this month, I mentioned actually getting on track by regularly spending time in the basement with the new switch control system as one of the potential projects. 

Having earlier removed the control panel and ordered "Mini-Cup Toggles" and "Extension Cables" from Barrett Hill Shop, the first step was to remove the "Direct Base" from the front of the fascia. As seen in the photo, I identified the bell wires coming from the different switch motors before disconnecting them. I also sketched a quick diagram of red and white wire order, so that the LEDs in the toggles would show green for mainline and red for diverging route when everything was completed. I went ahead and disconnected the wires labeling them by turnout number.

Remembering that the panel would be reversed when mounted on the back of the fascia, I reinstalled the wires from the Tortoise turnout motors to the "Direct Base." Then I reinstalled the unit, screwing it to the back of the benchwork 1" X 4" behind the fascia. As the fascia was pretty beat up and I didn't want to replace it, I resorted to spackle to plug the holes and otherwise smooth the damage from removing the control panel. Luckily, I was working on the railroad for a limited time, but regularly. Rewiring the base unit and testing took some time, as did waiting for the spackle to dry, sanding it, and later touching up the paint. 

As long as nothing was directly behind, I chose to drill the 1" holes lined up in front of the turnout throw bars. In a couple of cases, I had to veer a little off to clear an obstruction.  I also wanted a consistent level above the bottom of the fascia. After marking a point 2" above the bottom of the fascia with tape, I first drilled a small hole through the fascia and frame at that point. Then I used a 1" Forstner bit to drill the holes lining up the center point with the smaller hole. While the Forstner bits are more expensive and slower than spade bits, the holes are clean and accurate. 

In this photo, one can see the cup touch toggles as they come from Barrett Hill Shop. I also ordered some extension cables as the mini-cup toggles come with a relatively short three wire cable. Luckily I had calculated closely enough with the number of two and five foot extensions that I had ordered. When I first made my order, Kevin offered me a good deal on the mini-cups if I returned the original touch toggles from my control panels. He is very helpful, and has a reputation of working with folks to solve their problems.

 In this photo two of the Mini-Cup Toggles can be seen in place. Although I had one kerfuffle with two of the wires slipping out of their clamp in the base unit, with a little patience I was able to solve that problem. In doing so, I found another feature of the Direct Base. The blue wiring clamps actually slip off and on on posts, so I was able to reattach the wires easily to the blue wiring clamp freed rather than working in a really tight space behind the fascia. 

Looking at the original photo at the top of the post, one can see that the fascia there still needs some touch up. I will need to remove the fascia to complete the water and other scenery in that section, so I chose to not attach the toggle cups with acrylic caulk at this time. They are tight enough to stay in place, but can be easily removed for fascia touch up later. I also want to dress some of the cable wires, so they are more hidden from view. Other than that they are all working, so when we ever get the electrical work done, they are ready! 

Buckled Track Repair

 

Although I thought that track work (and track wiring) was complete here on the first phase, it turns out that I was mistaken. Gremlins appeared. In my last post, just a few days ago, I mentioned that the track had buckled on the passing track at Nooksack. After further review I suspect that the cause is not exclusively rail expansion, but at least partially benchwork wood shrinking with the low humidity of our house with the furnace blasting this winter. In addition, the turnout to the left of the buckled track has twisted and no longer lies flat causing derailments. 

At first I considered what I thought to be the easiest solution: unsolder the rail joiners, cut off a bit of each rail, and resolder the joiners. I wouldn't have to make any changes to the wiring; the existing feeders would still be adequate. However, what might happen in the summer when the wood expands? I decided to take a different approach.

I got out my Dremel and using the cutting disk, cut a new gap in the buckled track. After filing the ends of the rail flat, the flex track straightened and the turnout flattened down. The cutting disk left an appropriate gap. I removed some of the ties, filed the rail ends, and slid rail joiners onto the rails. With everything back in place after gapping the rails, both the track and the turnout were realigned. By not soldering the new joiners, the rails can move with the changes in humidity/temperature through the seasons. But. . . now we have a possible electrical gap, as loose rail joiners are notoriously untrustworthy.  

Needing to add a set of feeders to ensure connectivity, I fetched my electrical toolbox. Knowing that this approach entailed dropping feeders, I had plugged in my soldering iron as an early step.  A hot iron, having all materials gathered (yes, literally in a toolbox), and tinning the rail and feeders before soldering the feeders in place made for quick work. I tested continuity between the feeder ends under the benchwork and the rails with my multimeter before joining the feeders to the DCC bus wires with suitcase connectors. Cleaning up and putting the track tub and wiring toolbox away left only a repeat of replacing several ties as tasks in the basement. 

While writing this post, I remembered that I needed to add the new gap and feeders to my "Propulsion Circuitry Diagram" in the three ring binder that I have started towards the Electrical Achievement Program should I chose to attempt it in the future. It is good practice to document what is going on down under the model railroad in any event, NMRA AP or not.

TOMA Phase One: Three Quick Updates

 1. Track Down and Wiring Complete on East Staging

Track down and ready to connect to the DCC bus extension

With my procedures for prepping the turnouts and soldering feeders under the rails, laying track and electrical work are interwoven rather than two sequenced steps. I have written about this process before, and it really does become easier after doing it multiple times. 

I did have one frustrating stumbling block that illustrates what I think of as the difference between remodeling and new construction. In fitting the new flex track into the glued down (well, technically latex caulked down) spur and mainline track, I had to peel up the existing ends and fit it to the new track. Track nails do not hold in the foam insulation board, and I did not want to be trying to adjust track on wet caulk. I should have worked from the existing spur track ends towards the new turnout instead of my standard procedure of working outward from the turnout. Adding to my frustration was the realization that I only had three Micro Engineering code 83 insulated rail joiners which fit nicely onto Peco turnouts, but are a bear to slip onto the Atlas flex track. Well, I almost immediately lost the third "spare" joiner into the ether as it flew off the end of a rail as I tried to force it on. While I had filed the ends of the rail, I had not made sure to have enough joiners on hand. I ultimately got the track installed with the last two insulated joiners. Must. Order. More.

The next day, the notion that "model railroading is fun" actually lived up to its reputation as the DCC bus extension, feeder drop connections, and Tam Valley Frog Juicer all wired up smoothly even though I was working under the layout. Having the right tools and materials on hand and having experience using them certainly makes things go smoother. I cleaned the rails and ran a loco over the new work. It ran smoothly, so I went ahead and soldered rail joiners. Again I cleaned the rails and ran a loco. It also ran smoothly. As I have a couple of sections of new (unpainted) track on the Nooksack module, I decided to run some experimental ops over the whole TOMA Phase One (Nooksack, trestle scene, and both staging sections) before breaking out the airbrush for final track painting.

2. First Operations Session

Having unpacked my Alco RS3 #229, I set up a west run of a freight extra from the, as yet unnamed, east staging. Using a switch list to organize the work, I arranged for pick ups and drop offs at the NP interchange, pick ups and drop offs at the trailing point switches in Nooksack, and some cars to continue on to Ferndale (in the west staging.) Using the switch list to list cars to be picked up and dropped off worked well. However, after almost immediately realizing that the Nooksack track had not been used or cleaned recently and that I hadn't cleaned the wheels of the RS3 since before packing it to move in 2021, I took a break to clean wheels and track. I thoroughly enjoyed doing some switching work, guided by just a switch list. I think that the process would work well with a second person, breaking the tasks up between engineer and conductor. 

I did jot down some steps to take to improve the experience, either just running solo or adding another person or two. Either labeled placeholder mockups of the industries or just labels to identify industries or spots in Nooksack are needed. The tape holding the lighted toggle switches in the control panel is not working consistently and needs to be replaced. Finally, make sure that locomotive wheels and all rail are clean before the session! 

#229 turned and ready to make up an east bound extra from the west staging

3. Freight Car Roster Update

While looking through boxes of railroad stuff in search of my locomotives I found the kits and ready to run rolling stock that I intend to add to my roster for the initial TOMA layout. I will have enough freight rolling stock to represent a reasonable mix of kinds of cars, railroads, and regional origin. The thirty-one car total should be more than enough to run, allowing for variety, and the total should allow for appropriate car flow at the proposed industries. 

I haven't really thought about my locomotive, passenger car, or caboose roster at this point. I have several locomotives that need decoder upgrades and all my locos other than #229 need some weathering. Both of those factors are potential gumption traps for me. To move beyond simple switching and just one train I will need to move beyond fear of failure and at least do some simple weathering and attempt a hard wired decoder install! Or not, and focus on structure and scenery work while enjoying some solo switching with what is there now.

Current Freight Car Roster with Railroad highlighted on cars weathered and at standard:

Nooksack: East Staging Part 2

 

Cutting, fitting, and laying the track

Although it has been a while since I last posted, work on the new staging module's track work and wiring has progressed over the last few weeks. Because of trying some new or unfamiliar techniques and excellent weather pulling me outside, the work has gone slowly. This module functions as staging, but it will be sceniced and have the same level of standards as the rest of the railroad. I fit the track and turnouts carefully using the same materials: code 83 rail, Peco Electrofrog turnouts with frogs isolated and powered feeders soldered under the rails, around four inches of straight rail into and out of turnouts, and most metal rail joiners soldered. My earlier post from the Ingleton practice plank series describes my process for preparing the turnouts and fitting track with the goal of smooth running.

 The "clear" DAP 230 goes on
white,but dries clear

In this module, I experimented with some new techniques with the benchwork which led to my attempting new techniques with the track. I went into the build contemplating laying the track directly on the foam board, but when my local brick-and-mortar hobby store was backordered until June with HO cork strips, that cemented the plan. With the hollow-core door and foam benchwork, I learned to guide the feeder wires through with a plastic straw. When actually installing the track on the foam board I experimented with glueing the track down with DAP Dynaflex 230 clear sealant. I marked where the moving parts of the turnouts would be located to ensure that they would not be glued down. My approach for my initial attempts started with finding some small wood blocks to prop up the track. I then squeezed a small bead of the sealant under the track before spreading it thinly with a one and a half inch putty knife. At that point I eased the track into place, double checking the positioning before pressing the track down into place. The positives for this technique include that it grabs and holds, the clear dries clear, and it cleans up with soap and water. For me the only negative was that holding the track up while squeezing the caulk gun and then spreading the bead into a thin film was awkward at best. I find caulk to be messy to work with. I'm sure it becomes easier with practice.  

Track wiring complete!

With my wife's help, I unclamped the staging module and we turned it upside down on a bed of bubble wrap on a rolling cart. Using my typical wiring standards (as seen in this post from January)planned for the rest of the railroad, the work went relatively smoothly. Things really do become easier with practice! One relatively minor new step included pulling the straws after sanding the somewhat splintered bottom surface of the door. My choice of employing the Peco spring in the switch rails and manually operating the turnouts here in the staging module rather than switch motors means that I also chose to use the Tam Valley "Dual Frog Juicer." The frog juicer comes set up for DCC use for two turnouts, so all that I had to do was attach the tinned jumpers and DCC jumpers to the bus wires to the appropriate screws. 

We returned the module to the Nooksack module, clamped it back in place, and ran a steam switcher and some rolling stock through it successfully. After the first successful tests I bolted the modules together and removed those clamps. After another trial run, I will be confident enough with the trackwork and wiring to move on to some next steps.

Nooksack: Wiring Complete and Checked

Since my last post I have checked off more from my to-do list with only one real hiccup.  

I moved the NCE DCC system to the shelf under the Nooksack Module. As the railroad grows, I will have four power districts, but the two NCE EB1s that I already have will be fine for now. The LED lights and the DCC system are all on a surge protector plugged into the new circuit in the basement. So, the railroad can be turned on with one switch. On the day that I set up the command station, I tested the track and had power to all the tracks. I also plugged in the Touch Toggles, and after adjusting the spring wire of the one turnout that I moved last spring, all the turnouts appeared to be working. 

The next day, I fit the Touch Toggles into the revised control panel, cleaned the track, and unpacked the throttles. Well, when I plugged in either of the throttles, the screen did not advance past the version, date, and time screen. After contacting some folks from my old NMRA division and exploring online, I replaced batteries without any better results. Finally, I unplugged the cable from the command station to the UTPs and plugged a throttle into the command station directly. Eureka, it worked. Troubleshooting the next day, I discovered that despite being "sure" that I had run the cab bus cables perfectly, I had actually plugged a cab bus cable into the wrong side of a UTP. With that correction made, I was back on track. Today, I ran a locomotive and a few cars around successfully. 

I have some track to prep and paint, and the masonite backdrops are ready to paint the sky color. However, I think that I need to prioritize a final plan for the east staging. One idea that I have already explored is to use the narrow, hollow-core door from our bathroom remodel. Do I want to learn how to wire through foam and hollow door? Or, do I want to use a technique that I am familiar with? I don't want to spend a lot of money for a temporary staging module, so the next question is, "What do I have on hand already?" That's not just for benchwork, but also track. Also, some of the big interrelated steps (operations, scenery, and structures) while in one-town mode need to move from notions to a plan!

 

Nooksack in Place: Finalizing the Installation

 

In my last post I contemplated how straightforward my checklist of tasks would be. So far, I have been able to deal with potential stumbling blocks by shifting the order of tasks a bit and buying a new tool. In this post, I'll break down the steps I took to finalize the installation of these first sections and craft a plan for the next few steps.

Checking the benchwork for level and the legs for plumb was not only the first step, but also a recurring step. What became the next or second step was to screw the benchwork to the L-girder seen lag screwed to the stud wall in the back of the snapshot to the left. I made sure to label the locations of the drywall screws up through the L-girder with arrows in red Sharpie. I needed to start attaching the 1/8" masonite backdrop as well during this process. In the back, I attached the backdrop to the studs with panel brads. On the other hand, I used drywall screws with finishing washers to screw the backdrop to the back of the benchwork as the backdrop turned the corner. 

At that point I attempted to bolt the legs in place with 1/4" carriage bolts. I had the bolts on hand, but when I started to drill the holes, I found that my drill motor with the bit installed would not fit between the benchwork cross members. A quick trip to the local Harbor Freight, and I had the solution: the ninety-degree angle attachment. So far, it worked quite well. All of the legs of the Nooksack modules were bolted in place with two bolts per leg. 
 

After sanding the seam and applying fiberglass tape, I went ahead and hung two LED fixtures that I had on hand. The one on the left is a 32" light from the Meadville layout, the one on the right is a four foot fluorescent fixture with 5000K LED replacement tubes. The color is obviously different. I also have 4300K LED tubes in a different fixture. I will experiment with replacing one or both of the 5000K with 4300K.

Now that Nooksack is lit, I can start mudding the seam and visible nail heads. With the benchwork installation finalized, I will move the command station and start the process of completing and checking the wiring. 

 

Wiring Updates on Nooksack TOMA project

Wiring diagram for Nooksack

Spending some time with the Nooksack modules, particularly dropping new feeders for the track, I have been thinking about my approach to wiring for the railroad in general. First of all, I really appreciate how the TOMA approach allows me to wire without crawling around under the railroad. Beyond that, electrical work such as wiring a model railroad is not an aspect of the hobby with which I came with a lot of experience. Continued skill building is a goal for me. So, I will discuss three phases (electrical pun!) of wiring updates and skill building in this post. I continue to deal with attempting to improve my soldering skills with notoriously shaky hands. I find I am revisiting the electrical standards that I initially established for the Meadville attic model railroad.  The most recent consideration is proactively thinking about the NMRA AP and how it can be a guide to improvement in range of skills. 

Soldering with Shaky Hands

I wrote about improving my skills for bulletproof track and electrical work on my initial practice plank in an earlier post. Complicating my desire to improve my soldering and wiring skills, my always shaky hands are getting worse as I age. In the photo seen here, I displayed the tools that I used in soldering feeders to several sections of revised track. I find that the more that I can stabilize the items that I am soldering the easier it is to get a quick and clean connection. I added locking tweezers and adjustable clamps to the collection to do just that. Pre-tinning the items to be soldered, making sure that they are "clean" (hence the addition of the scratch brush to polish the rail) before tinning, and using thinner solder all help as well. Clamping down my badly balanced soldering iron stand and using higher quality wire strippers make the process move efficiently and allow me to approach the task calmly and more confidently. Another subtle change to my approach is to attempt to set everything up so that I can solidly rest my forearms on a surface to pivot my hands holding the iron and solder into position. Soldering is still not my forte, but I am improving. 

Electrical Standards for the DCC Bus Revisited

Early on with the Meadville attic railroad, I set up some wiring standards as seen in this post from 2015. I have not changed them much, but I want to restate them as I begin the newest version of the 4th Subdivision.

1. DCC bus will be #14 gauge Red and Black wire.
2. Track polarity will be Black "out" or towards the aisle.
3. Track feeders will be #22 Red and Black with new applications soldered under the rail. 
4. Feeder connections will be suitcase connectors (3M "Scotchloc" IDC 905).
5. Bus connections between modules will be Eurostyle terminal strips
6. As I establish power districts, some standards may vary. Longer DCC bus wires may be #12 twisted red and black. Screw type barrier strip terminal blocks with soldered spade lugs may be utilized. 

NMRA Achievement Program: Model Railroad Engineer--Electrical

While I am not positive I will actually attempt the AP Electrical, it provides guidelines and structure for improving skills and doing solid work. In addition to proactively documenting in case I may choose to attempt it, having good records in case of the need for troubleshooting in the future is solid practice. In addition to using this blog, I may create a binder really focused on the AP electrical guidelines. Without going too far into the weeds with the AP here, two areas that Nooksack meets are Section D: Propulsion circuitry diagram of section A and Section B. 1. Turnout. The diagram shown at the beginning of this post is a first step towards diagraming the the "Propulsion Circuitry" of the entire railroad. 

Section B of the requirements includes wiring and demonstrating three of a number of items including turnouts. The Nooksack modules have seven Peco Elecctrofrog turnouts. In the photo of one upside down seen here, the steps I took to prep the turnouts to have powered frogs can be identified. I clipped the two wire jumpers and used insulated rail joiners to insure that the powered frog was properly gapped. 

At the same time, I soldered jumpers between the closure rails and stock rails. I also soldered a green feeder to the underside of the now isolated frog area, assuming that I remember to use insulated rail joiners at the point rails when installing the turnout. 

In the schematic seen here, one can follow how the green frog feeder wire is routed to the SPDT switch in the Tortoise by Circuitron switch machine used in the Nooksack modules. When the switch machine is thrown, the internal SPDT changes the polarity of the frog. One aspect of wiring the Peco turnouts in this manner is that the wire spring in the actual switch must be removed. Because the spring changes the speed at which the turnout is thrown by the motor versus the speed of the SPDT switch changing the polarity of the frog, a short is likely to happen with the wire spring left in place. 

This schematic drawing is also needed as a supplement to the "Propulsion Circuitry" diagram seen earlier. In that diagram, the gaps and switches needed for the powered frogs are represented by the shorthand green rectangles which in turn are shown in more detail in this schematic. 

Now, instead of explaining, writing, and drawing, it is time to talk my wife into helping me spin the modules one more time and connect the new feeders to the bus wires and call the propulsion wiring on Nooksack finalized. 

Nooksack To-Do List Part 2

 

Nooksack modules on edge on sawhorses

We are into a new year, traditionally a time to re-evaluate goals. A major point of the TOMA approach is to complete a section of model railroad in a timely manner. So one goal is to get moving on Nooksack, the first phase of the 4th Subdivision. Between the basement issues and the holidays, I hit a definite slowdown. Yesterday, Renee helped me lower the sawhorses and bolt on the small bridge module. While up on the sawhorses I can continue finalizing the DCC bus and feeders as well as the switch machine wiring without crawling around on the concrete floor. I might as well install the UTP cab bus panels and run the cab bus now as well. With just a few more hours of work the Nooksack modules will be ready to move into place. 

One of the basement issues, the slow leak in the water pipe over one of the staging locations, was finally repaired. I do have a little more prep work before installing backdrops behind the modules or setting up the DCC in the new location. I am hoping to have the benchwork in place, the backdrops installed, and the wiring to the track operational by the end of January. 

At that point I can move onto the next steps: staging, lighting, scenery and structures, rolling stock, and operations plans. I have some notions for all of these, if not specific detailed plans. Another of my goals (note the reluctance to use the term resolutions) is to post here more frequently . . . perhaps average three times a month rather than two. As I work on these next steps, I will have much to document. 

To-Do List: Nooksack TOMA

Well, the basement issues mentioned in my last post are still unresolved and have turned into a huge gumption trap (see my post from last February) that has set me into a huge unproductive funk. One of the solutions to gumption traps mentioned in that post is Jack Burgess's suggestion to commit to actual work on the railroad for fifteen or thirty minutes everyday. With my wife's help today, we took down the Nooksack ten-foot section and set it up on sawhorses behind my workbench. I have power to the workbench, so I can rig up some lighting to actually work on the Nooksack section. Hopefully incremental progress on the railroad will lead to incremental improvement to my mental state!

Small Steps To-Do List:

• Module down and on sawhorses
• Reinstall Tortoise for longer passing track turnout
• Check for and add feeder drops as needed
• Connect all drops to DCC Bus
• Install UTP cab bus panels
• Bolt on the small bridge module
• All electrical connections finalized
• Finalize planning and start installation of . . .
• Backdrop
• Lighting
• Valance
• Modules returned and in place!
• Control panel and touch toggles installed
• DCC moved and set up

I also have some not so small steps to work out, but I want to try to get back into a more productive and satisfying mode by making progress with these tasks. Let's hope my next post highlights some more of these steps completed.