TOMA Phase Two: Infrastructure

 

Floor paint, second coat

In trying to avoid making the same mistake over and over, I transitioned to some "infrastructure" work since the last couple of posts. Painting the basement floor has been another in a long line of gumption traps for me. Despite having made some additional progress on the trackwork on the new module, I took it down from the temporary workbench and forced myself to tackle painting the floor. 

Starting with the area under the future location of "Phase Two" and along the Ingleton shelf seemed like a logical location. With the area emptied of stuff, I swept, shop vacced, and washed this segment of the floor. According to online pundits, painted concrete floors don't like hot water or acidic cleaners, so rather than my wife's initial suggestion of vinegar and hot water, I used warm water and a few drops of dishwashing soap. Again, according to the pundits, I used a damp sponge mop instead of really soaking the floor with a wet mop. I don't know if success was from following the experts, but all the paint appears to be maintaining adhesion.

Painting the floor in front of the Ingleton shelf doesn't quite complete the so-called infrastructure work there. (I think I picked up the use of the term infrastructure for work supporting the model railroad from Mike Hauk.) The little stud wall here is sheathed with homasote, and past water damage had warped the bottom. Before painting the floor, I cut out the worst of the deformed bottom on the one side. I cut a piece of clapboard salvaged from the "bar" and will use it as a baseboard. I also need to figure out the valance to hide the LED light and better frame the scene in this mini-layout. 

Behind Ingleton's stud wall, a set of built in shelves will support the railroad with storage. The framing supporting these shelves also has some water damage on one side. I plan to sister in some support, and I cut two 2X4s to do just that. The floor in the same area has a spot that is always wet. It can be seen in this photo. I plan to experiment with a hydraulic concrete patch here. That will need to be patched and allowed to dry before I can continue painting the floor here behind the stud wall. 

I definitely want to continue with the work around the Ingleton shelf before moving back to the track and electrical work on the new module. After painting the floor, with just a couple of steps on the location for the new module, its new home will be ready, and I can transition from a focus on infrastructure back to model rainlorading.

New Module -- Roadbed and Track, Part 1

The roadbed jigsaw pieces fit together

 In my last post, I mentioned next steps as working on the new module as well as completing some infrastructure work. I have, for the most part, focused on the new module in the last couple of weeks. However, before moving the module back to the sawhorses, I gathered up some of the tools and materials from the train room expansion projects and moved them out to the garage. In doing so, I was able to liberate the red work cart for actually working on the railroad. 

The puzzle is underway

I ended up piecing the roadbed together from a variety of materials. I had some cork on hand, but not enough to complete the whole module. I ordered some Walthers closed cell foam roadbed when I first ordered supplies for this project. Also, I found that I had one piece of cork turnout pad. Remembering my experience reclaiming modules, I used Elmer's white glue instead of Weldbond in case I would need to make changes. Again, I used a combination of nailing, clamping, and weighting to affix the roadbed materials. 

Putty in the gaps

With the assortment of types of roadbed and methods of attaching it, I had a bit of a learning curve. As I moved forward, I continued to double check with the track markings and the track itself. Facing turnouts and the full width foam were both new to me, so finding the one turnout pad in my bin of track parts helped. Clicking to enlarge the photos, one can see the pice of cork that I cut to fill a void. I traced the odd shape on a piece of paper and used it as a template. While it took a few days to fit the jigsaw pieces of roadbed together, it all came together. In this photo, I had just finished filling gaps in the roadbed and the screw divots with putty. 

The trackwork starts with the turnouts

With the roadbed in place and the cork painted an initial gray color, it was time to move on to starting the track and wiring. I started with the Peco turnouts. I have discussed prepping Peco turnouts before such as here or here. At this point I have isolated the frog and have a feeder soldered that will later run to the Tortoise switch machines. As I am using the switch machines on these two turnouts, I also removed the tiny spring in the turnouts. Back in my modular railroading days in Seattle, we discovered the possibility of creating shorts with the spring in place when using switch motors to change polarity. 

Now it is time to move on with fitting the track together and dropping feeders. As I solder the feeders under the rail as I lay the track, these two steps are taken together, rather than the typical lay track and then add feeders. I may take a brief break in working on this new module, as I will be prepping for a group clinic on weathering without an airbrush at my NMRA division's next in-person meeting.

TOMA Phase Two: New Module & Next Steps

Underside of the new module

The new module's benchwork is complete. Since my last post I completed the process of glueing and screwing the plywood top to the framework. After the glue dried, I drilled some holes through the framework to later run wiring. I also cut and glued on some wood spacers to support the fascia once it is time for that step. After those dried I went ahead and primed the underside with a latex primer. 

Now that the benchwork construction of this new module is complete, I revisited the penciled in track plan on its plywood top and started test fitting the track and roadbed. When I ordered track, turnouts, and roadbed a few months ago, cork roadbed was not available, so I went ahead and purchased some of the new Walthers closed foam roadbed. I also purchased Peco flex track, which I hadn't used before. Since I am using Peco turnouts, it makes sense to use their Code 83 flex track as well. 

By temporarily clamping the new module in place, I not only identified a slight angled gap between the modules, but I was also able to accurately position the end of the roadbed. In working with the Walthers roadbed, I found it to be less forgiving, perhaps because it is full width, with curving easily. I cut a small straight piece to glue in place here at the junction with the existing benchwork, ensuring that the subtle s-curve going through the fill would be from one length of the roadbed. Walthers says it can be glued, but does not specify what type of glue. I tried Weldbond. 

After the Weldbond dries, I will unclamp and move the new module back to the sawhorses to more easily work on finishing installation of roadbed along with the track and electrical work. I will need to review prepping the Peco turnouts before pre assembling the turnout section. Along with installing the trackwork, I will want to at least start some of the electrical work such as the track feeders and DCC bus with the underside easily accessible. Unlike the track and roadbed components which I ordered ahead of time, I'd better check my supply of switch machines and wire. I also have some infrastructure work to complete: hardboard for the backdrop and a new LED fixture for lighting will need to be purchased and installed as well as prepping and painting the floor before permanently bolting the module into place.  

TOMA Phase Two Underway

Revised Phase Two Sketch

I left off my last post with a desire to revise my plan for Phase Two and start with the new benchwork. As seen above, I shortened the plan for the new module and came up with this working plan. 

After sketching the plan, my next step involved unburying the sheet of half inch plywood from the back of a pile of lumber in the garage and purchasing a new blade for my Skilsaw. Still out in the garage, I cut a two foot by six foot section to bring into the basement to work from in order to fashion the top of the benchwork for the now six foot long cut and fill module. My plan was not to just create a flat rectangular benchtop, but to incorporate a curved front as well as some lower sections for the "fill" to rise up from. Later I will create the hill with the cut on top of the plywood base.

Using measurements of where the track on the modules to either side will be, my layout plan sketch, and some track I drew out the track plan on the plywood. If you click on the photo to enlarge it, you can see where I drew in the curved front of this new module. I started sketching in the track plan in pencil at this point as well, but I went over the curved front with a marker to make it easy to see. That will be the first cut with my saber saw. 

After cutting out the curved front of the plywood panel, I continued with drawing the track plan on the plywood. I first sketched in some initial ideas for the lowered section or ravine that will be cut out. I also did some basic calculations to get an idea of how low these dropped sections need to go. I have a trestle that I built from a Campbell kit years ago that I plan to use on the drill track. I also have a concrete culvert kit for the fill section. I wanted to make sure I had room for these. Then I cut out those sections that will be dropped below the rest of the plywood top. 

After cutting the plywood to its final shape, I started designing and construction of the grid framework. In this photo, it is completed and resting on sawhorses, ready for the installation of the top. To actually build the grid, I had the plywood on the sawhorses and laid out the "one by" pine panels on top of it. I used basic glue and screw techniques to put the grid together.  Having two drill motors made fast work of drilling and then screwing the parts together. 

In this photo from earlier today, the top and recessed areas are positioned in place, as is the trestle. After I took this photo I went ahead and glued and screwed the plywood top in place. One trick that I tried before final assembly was to reposition the plywood under the grid on the sawhorses in order to pencil in exactly where the grid frame pieces would be before reconfiguring the panel back on top. I also avoided positioning screws under future track locations as well as countersinking the screw heads, so they would be hidden under future scenery. 

I plan to continue working on this new section as a module as I find that it is much easier to complete some of the next steps by tipping it upside down or on edge rather than crawling under the installed benchwork. I need to complete some more prep work before installing this section as well; floor painting and extending the backdrop come to mind.

Basement to Trainroom Continued

Earlier this week I finished painting the foundation walls, completing one step of the transition to trainroom. While nowhere near as wet as last spring when the sump pump failed, the floor has a couple of areas where the existing green paint is missing and moisture is seeping in. A next step, painting the floor, will have to either wait or be done in sections avoiding moisture. Generally the "French Drain Canal" has been channeling the water to the drain in the far corner of the basement successfully, and the existing green paint seals the moisture away.

When my wife and I moved the Ferndale Junction module into place, she pointed out that, even with the fold down section, she felt it was too close to the well pressure tank and inlet plumbing. Her point is that we should allow room for someone to work if (or when) we need work done. So, we moved the module back a bit, and I have been sketching out a plan for a six foot rather than seven foot module for the new section between Nooksack and Ferndale Junction. I really don't want to set myself up for a serious "I told you so" situation. 

Next steps appear to be some floor cleaning and painting as well as finalize the plan and get started on the benchwork for the new cut and fill module/section. 

Staying On Track: Updates Continue

 

With the wiring and clean ups coming together in the basement/train room, I went ahead and unpacked the buildings from Nooksack and placed them in their intended locations. Having finished the background warehouse for the packing house scene, that area is ready for next layer of scenery such as ground cover application. However, before I jump into that I want to continue with the next phase of construction of benchwork and backdrop as it will be just to the left (west) of this scene.

Just in the last few days I picked up some 1 by lumber for benchwork construction. I started by cutting to length before glueing and screwing together some 1 x 2 and 1 x 3 boards to form an L-girder.  The back edge of the new section will rest on this L-girder shelf. I discussed this new section, designed to create some scenery and connect the Ferndale Junction module with Nooksack, in an earlier post. As implied by the placement of the L-girder shelf, the new section will continue with open grid construction. I explored a couple of other benchwork approaches, but decided to stick with open grid benchwork with a couple of adaptations. I do plan to drop part of the plywood below track level to create the bottom of a lowered ravine section of the cut and fill scene. I may also use a subtle cookie cutter technique to create a bit of incline for the yard lead track. A third adaptation will be a slightly curved front edge to this section of benchwork, anticipating future expansion plans where this area will accommodate a narrow aisle. While the benchwork here has all been pretty rectangular, I did build a curvey, multilevel section in my attic layout in Meadville. The next steps with this section include extending the backdrop and cutting the plywood (or cardboard template) to shape, so that I can finalize the track and framework plans. 

While the painting of the basement walls is still not complete, I did finish this section between the laundry area and the furnace a couple of weeks ago. If I would just knuckle down and do it, I have only one section of the exposed foam coating of the stone walls left to paint. Granted it likely will be the trickiest, with lots of pipes and other household infrastructure to work around, but it should be doable in one day's work. While the area behind the new section and Ferndale Junction's walls are painted, I should paint the floor and do any hydrostatic concrete repair before the permanent installation of those modules takes place. As I paint the walls, it just makes me more aware of how beat up and unsightly the floor appears. Prepping and painting the floor is a bit of a gumption trap, but I must bite the bullet before I make it even harder for myself by fixing more benchwork in place. 

Ingleton Updates

Ingleton with fascia and Power Cab installed

The last time I posted about bringing the Ingleton shelf back to life, I listed six items to work on in checklist form. Over the last few weeks I have completed the first two.

I saved  a piece of beveled siding that the previous owners used in the bar area of the basement to use as the fascia. After trimming it to the correct length, I couldn't decide how to best attach it to the shelf. It is seen leaning against the shelf in this photo.  Without some form of support, I was convinced that a connection between the 3/4" shelf edge and the narrow beveled edge of the fascia would be flimsy at best. Also seen in the photo is what I decided to do--I glued a 1" x 2" along the bottom of the front of the shelf. My thinking was that would give enough support to the fascia after it was screwed in place. 

Before attaching the fascia, I figured out the appropriate size opening for the NCE Power Cab throttle panel, marked it, and cut it out, remembering that I had limited wire length to work with from the existing bus wire. Also before attaching the fascia, I applied the first coat of SW Andiron, my standard fascia paint color. Then I clamped the fascia in place and attached it with drywall screws and finishing washers before applying a second coat of paint. 

Since the shelf already had the DCC bus installed, completing the installation of the Power Cab system was quite easy. The supplied wall wart cable plugs into the back and the two track wires screw into the green clip that then also slides onto the back of the panel. I found that using a white pencil to mark the screw hole locations on the fascia works best with my dark fascia color. The mounting screws are not included with the package, but I have a collection of screws on hand. I followed the NCE guideline of having the LED to the bottom and plugging the flat wire into the left port. To finish the installation after mounting the panel, I also drilled two holes in the fascia and attached dowels to hold the throttle when it is not in use. This can be seen in the initial photo at the top of the post. In that photo, one can see that a valance is needed to limit the glare from the LED lighting for the Ingleton shelf.

I am hesitant to move much beyond planning for the valance by unpacking rolling stock and structures before I have more presentation or infrastructure work done. Again, looking at the initial photo at the top of this post, more painting needs to be completed behind Ingleton's stud wall. Also, cleaning up the base of this stud wall might be connected to a desire to paint the floor. The green floor paint is starting to get pretty beat up looking. On the other hand, if the desire to run some trains becomes overwhelming, Ingleton is ready!