East Staging and Trestle Scene: Berms and Gaps

Berms and gaps along backdrop

Over the last few weeks, I progressed with the terrain along the backdrop and tying the several sections together with the trestle scene module and the new staging section. One successful technique for realism with model railroad backdrops is to hide any ninety degree angles such as where the benchwork and backdrop meet. Creating a berm or slight rise in front of the backdrop can accomplish this. In this post I hope to show how I approached creating these terrain forms. Throughout the process, I had the backdrop protected with wax paper and the track with blue painter's tape

Step One: Create a terrain base or supporting structure for the berm with a slight gap in front of the backdrop. While other techniques exist, I used just a few here:

Crumpled paper held in place with masking tape

Packing styrofoam in "topographic" shapes, stacked and glued in place

Step 2: Cover the form with plaster cloth, a gauze embedded with plaster. I cut the plaster cloth into smaller pieces and briefly wet it by pulling it through water in a narrow paint tray. As I draped the plaster cloth over the forms, I overlapped the sheets and gently smoothed the sheets together. In addition to the berms, I also reformed several hills that had been cut apart to separate the modules for our latest move using the crumpled paper and masking tape technique to connect to the existing cardboard web foundation. 

Plaster cloth repair application and water tray

Step 3: Add a few rock castings. As the plaster cloth dried, I mixed up some hydrocal and cast a few rocks from one of the molds I had on hand. A few days later after all had dried, I glued the rock castings onto and into the plaster cloth. 

Rock castings attached and stained

Step 4: Covering the plaster cloth with Sculptamold or "ground goop." While I have posted about using ground goop before, I decided to go with Sculptamold, an easy to mix, paper mache-like material that I had on hand instead. It spreads with a palette knife, the back of a spoon, or just moistened fingers. 

Sculptamold over the new berm, covering cracks, and
hiding old plaster cloth texture

Step 5: Paint the white Sculptamold areas with my brown "earth" color and remove the protective blue tape and wax paper. 

Terrain painted and ready for next steps

Next steps: With the track uncovered, I want to run some trains to check the track work, electrical, and rolling stock again. Double checking through every step should help towards identifying issues while they are still easy to correct. While I am still in the planning stages for foreground scenery, the newly formed berms are ready for the first layers of ground cover. 

TOMA Phase One: Developing a Rolling Stock Roster Part 2

 

In-process spreadsheet: a rolling stock roster

Several weeks ago, I posted about developing a rolling stock roster for Nooksack, the first TOMA section of the 4th Subdivision. There, I came up with a potential number of railroad cars, proportions of railroads represented, and percentage of different car types that I am striving for. Since that post I have adapted an older spreadsheet inventorying my rolling stock by sorting it by kind, adding color codes for the kinds of railroads (e.g., homeroad, connected foreign road, foreign road in region) and updating the standards checked column. I will update the spreadsheet, seen in-process above, as I recheck for meeting standard, complete weathering, or add new cars. 

Revisiting my standards on the workbench

I rechecked standards of some of the rolling stock I already had unpacked and have been running on the Nooksack modules. One of the first posts on this blog discussed my standards as I unpacked from the move from Seattle. My rationale for standards is based on my desire for smooth running, trouble-free coupling, and minimal derailments. Following are my standards and some discussion for each:

• While at times it can be difficult, I try to follow NMRA Recommended Practice RP20.1 concerning the weight of rolling stock. I use this test track mounted on  plywood and a wooden ruler marked with HO scale recommended weights (1  ounce plus 1/2 ounce per inch of length) and the postal scale. I am not too fussy, but I do try to get close. Boxcars are fairly easy to adjust, but with other styles, it can be a challenge. In another earlier post, I discussed one creative solution for gondolas.

• Despite some controversy over the choice between metal and plastic wheels, my standards include metal wheels for several reasons. When I started out in a modular group in Seattle, their standards included metal wheels. Metal wheels add weight to often underweight rolling stock. In my perception, they appear to roll smoothly and sound good. Not only do I require metal wheels that turn freely, but I check them for gauge, using an NMRA Standards Gauge.

• On the test track in the photo, one can notice a Kaydee coupler height gauge and trip pin pliers on the foam along with the NMRA gauge. For smooth operation, I want my couplers to line up and work smoothly, so I check the coupler and trip pin height. I also check that the couplers open and close as well as center smoothly. If I find that I need to replace couplers, I will choose Kaydee #158 HO scale whisker scale metal couplers. I have not yet insisted on replacing all working couplers with these scale couplers, but I could imagine that as a future upgrade. 

• The trucks need to swivel freely. If possible, I prefer to adjust the truck mounting screws so that one truck rotates smoothly side to side and the other is a bit looser so that it tilts up and down a little as well.  

• I now consider weathering part of my rolling stock standards. All cars should have some weathering. 

Weathering without the airbrush

Several days ago I tackled weathering two of the three covered hoppers that I will be using for silica sand service. I bought these used last year and had updated the weight; they basically met my standards except they hadn't been weathered. Here are the steps and materials that I utilized:

• I removed the trucks and started staining the one side of each car with Vallejo 76.517 Model Wash, Dark Grey.

• While the first side was drying, I removed the wheels from the truck and placed them in my cardboard wheel holder. I washed the wheel fronts down with 70% isopropyl alcohol.

• While the wheels were drying I stained the other side of the hopper and then the tops.

• I then painted the wheel faces with MicroLux 29002, Grimy Black using a Microbrush.

• Returning to the hopper car bodies, I started applying PanPastel 780.5 Raw Umber and 820.7 Neutral Grey Tint along the hatch covers and streaking down the side.

• I tackled the ends of the hopper cars using both the Dark Grey Model Wash and the Grimy Black

• One of the Bowser hoppers had a shiny brown original paint that contrasted with the matte weathering, so I sprayed that one with Dull Coat. 

• While that dried, I started on the trucks, a grey wash and more PanPastels. I had a reference photo of a MOW sand car with grey sand on the trucks. I wanted to approach the look of that, but not quite as extreme.

Today, I went through and unpacked many of the cars from Meadville that were on the original inventory spreadsheet that this roster is based on. I also pulled out a couple of kits or RTR cars that will be needed to complete this roster. I have some hopper cars for the rock train that I haven't found yet that I think will wrap up the list. At this point my task is to check more cars for standard, weather a few of them, and build a few kits that I have on hand. I may post with building and weathering the two GN flatcars. If not, I probably won't post about the roster again until it is complete. Lots to do with scenery though!