A Scene in Fifteen Steps -- Step 6, a Photo Backdrop

A photo backdrop has been under consideration all along

In my previous post, I noted my notion of trying Bob Frankron's approach to completing a scene in fifteen steps. There, I listed fifteen steps to completing the Nooksack Valley produce complex spur scene. In that list, the sixth step was to add a photo backdrop a la Paul Dolkos. As I was preparing a clinic to present for my NMRA division, my focus for the last couple of weeks was on this step.

Early in my planning for this scene, I researched packing plant images, both for structures and entire scene images. In my Google image searches, I came across this site that included a photo that included the section seen to the left. This scene is fairly modern and includes modern semi-trailers, but it was the best starting point I found.

After living with the original image leaning in place, I decided to make some changes. I took a fairly analog approach. I printed out the original image and resized it to what seemed appropriate on my inkjet printer/copier/scanner. Then I printed several copies to create a collaged version of what I thought I wanted. Using a sharp number 11 blade and glue stick I made several changes by covering the trailer, removing the large fruit boxes, and extending the building to the left in my final collaged image.

I photocopied the collaged image, and after printing it out went ahead and cut out the image I planned to use, again with a sharp hobby knife. As I was working down in the train room this time, I cut on the tempered glass on my workbench.  As inkjet printed images are subject to bleeding if they get wet, I sprayed the image with several layers of Testors Dullcoat. After that protective layer dried, I used a sepia Prismacolor marker to color the white paper along the cut edges. My recommendation would be to use a light gray or sepia colored Prismacolor rather than black or a Sharpie of any color.

For this experiment I used Scotch Super 77 as the adhesive. It is a very aggressive adhesive, so make sure to protect whatever surface you are working on. I used some old packing papers and a paper towel, but still managed to get one spot on the benchwork. I had to go back with lacquer thinner to remove it. The point of using this glue is to avoid the photo peeling off later. 

Before applying the spray adhesive, I marked the location of the where I wanted the photo on the benchwork and experimented with coving the bottom of the photo onto the benchwork. After I applied the spray adhesive and let it dry to tacky, I placed the top in place. After smoothing the top edge down, I carefully smoothed down the bottom on the benchwork leaving a coved or rounded gap between the top and bottom edges. The photo to the left shows the photo glued in place, hopefully hiding the right angle between the backdrop and the benchwork with a coved image. 

The most recent step I have taken was to do some painting on the brown plywood bench top. The goal is to further hide the joint between the photo and the bench top surface. I used grimy black and a slate gray acrylic paint to blend from the ground into the photo. I blended the two colors, wet on wet, as I applied them. I am not entirely happy with the results, but the paint is just the first layer. I will be adding sanded grout, which I may apply up into the photo. Although I don't always follow my own advice, in general it is best to stop before I go too far. I remember Gerry Leone saying in a video that he "tries to stop when he thinks to himself, 'just a little more'."