Materials
Materials needed to lay cork roadbed |
- Cork
- Sanding block
- wood glue
- small nails
- needle nose pliers
- hammer
- paper towels
- utility knife with sharp blade
- pencil and sharpie
- metal rule
- putty knife
- spackle
- brush or shop vac
First Steps
- Make sure all track center lines and turnout locations are marked on the sub-roadbed (plywood in my case.)
- Split the cork.
- Glue down the cork strips (with the bevel to the outside) following the centerline and then tack in place with small nails just into the plywood. Remember, the nails will be removed after the glue dries.
- Offset the cork strips to avoid ends butting side by side.
- For turnouts glue and tack just the outer strips.
Turnouts
For the interior of the turnout, measure by overlapping and then mark with a pencil or sharpie in order to make an accurate cut. The cut will first be a taper and then trimming the bevel of the cork so it fits between the existing cork strips. I found that I was fitting the cork strip that followed the divergent route first before the strip following the straight. Both should be test fit and adjusted before glueing either of them in place.
Finishing Up the Cork
- Allow the glue to dry overnight and remove the small nails.
- Sand the bevel to remove the ridge left along one edge after splitting the cork in half. Some people recommend doing this before installing the cork, but I find it easier to do after the cork is glued in place. Just make sure it is done before painting the cork or installing track.
- Spackle any gaps in the turnout splice work. I spackled the nail heads in the plywood at the same time.
- It might be a good idea to paint the cork at this time, at least flat black under turnout locations. On the other hand, it might be prudent to finalize track placement and drill holes for turnout controls before painting.
Special Applications for Willow Junction
The two yard tracks were trimmed square as they were glued down, while the mainline cork offsets the plywood for later final trim when staging is attached.
The cork abuts a cedar shim as the interchange towards the front will be code 70 track representing the Puget Sound and Badger River Railroad, a lumber line.
The cork for the siding in the back abuts the piece of gatorboard that will be the base for the construction of a small engine house. I learned this technique from Pete Gulick, one of my modular railroad friends in Seattle.
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