Recently upgraded white elephant find |
While making sure that any cars added to the roster of my model railroad are set up with metal wheelsets, checked with an NMRA standards gauge, continues to be a part of my standards, I haven't always paid attention to weathering the wheels. Having purchased a box of shiny metal wheelsets, I made sure to include the wheels in my weathering procedure by mixing some brown and rust acrylic modeling paints to paint the fronts of the wheels with a micro-brush before installing them. By cutting slots in the edge of a scrap of cardboard, I had a quick and dirty jig to hold the wheelsets. Another addition to my weathering procedure seen in this shot is to commit to at least attempting to find a prototype photo to use as a reference.
This older, Walthers Trainline ready-to-run reefer, lettered for the Swift Refrigerator Line, was slightly underweight according to the NMRA RP-20.1 and came with horn hook couplers. So, I removed the body of the car to attach the weights that had come loose and add an additional quarter ounce weight. I also removed the trucks and opened the coupler boxes. While the reefer was apart, I went ahead and brush painted the underframe, which had been a shiny, light brown plastic. I used a Vallejo Dark Grey, Oily Steel, and Dark Rust Wash. The Oily Steel Model Color is one of my favorite colors right now!
After the paint dried overnight, I installed Kadee #158 Scale Whisker Couplers in the coupler boxes. I had dry brushed the trucks with the same Dark Grey Vallejo paint and Dark Rust Wash as I used on the underframe. After fitting in the metal wheelsets, I reinstalled the trucks. In tightening the screws, I try to have one truck just loose enough that it turns freely side to side without rocking or swiveling. In what I call my "cinderella" technique, I loosen the other truck just a bit more, so that it can swivel as well as turn side-to-side. Having the trucks either too loose or too tight can lead to train car derailments, wobble, or lean. After press-fitting the car body and undercarriage back together, it was time to tackle weathering this Swift Reefer.
Having seen some some really nice results from using Vallejo Washes, both in a recent Division 12 clinic by Rob Bennett and in a MRVP episode, "Cody's Workshop: Episode 27," I had ordered several and wanted to try them. I used a Dark Grey on the sides of the reefer and a layered combination of Oiled Earth, Dark Rust, and European Dust on the roof. This photo shows the roof after just one or two layers of wash. I ended up using three or four as well as some Bragdon powders. The sides did not go as smoothly as I had hoped. Initially, I felt that the Dark Grey was too dark on the original Aluminum. I applied a light tint PanPastel color over the wash after the wash had dried, but wasn't happy with that either. At that point, I moistened a makeup sponge with water and removed some of the PanPastel and some of the wash under it as well. Basically, I was then in a very painterly mode, working with different materials in a wet-on-wet environment and hopefully knowing when to stop! While my color choice was not ideal for the sides of this car, I will continue to use the Vallejo Wash colors, and I know not to fear tuning up and weathering rolling stock simultaneously.
This older, Walthers Trainline ready-to-run reefer, lettered for the Swift Refrigerator Line, was slightly underweight according to the NMRA RP-20.1 and came with horn hook couplers. So, I removed the body of the car to attach the weights that had come loose and add an additional quarter ounce weight. I also removed the trucks and opened the coupler boxes. While the reefer was apart, I went ahead and brush painted the underframe, which had been a shiny, light brown plastic. I used a Vallejo Dark Grey, Oily Steel, and Dark Rust Wash. The Oily Steel Model Color is one of my favorite colors right now!
After the paint dried overnight, I installed Kadee #158 Scale Whisker Couplers in the coupler boxes. I had dry brushed the trucks with the same Dark Grey Vallejo paint and Dark Rust Wash as I used on the underframe. After fitting in the metal wheelsets, I reinstalled the trucks. In tightening the screws, I try to have one truck just loose enough that it turns freely side to side without rocking or swiveling. In what I call my "cinderella" technique, I loosen the other truck just a bit more, so that it can swivel as well as turn side-to-side. Having the trucks either too loose or too tight can lead to train car derailments, wobble, or lean. After press-fitting the car body and undercarriage back together, it was time to tackle weathering this Swift Reefer.
Having seen some some really nice results from using Vallejo Washes, both in a recent Division 12 clinic by Rob Bennett and in a MRVP episode, "Cody's Workshop: Episode 27," I had ordered several and wanted to try them. I used a Dark Grey on the sides of the reefer and a layered combination of Oiled Earth, Dark Rust, and European Dust on the roof. This photo shows the roof after just one or two layers of wash. I ended up using three or four as well as some Bragdon powders. The sides did not go as smoothly as I had hoped. Initially, I felt that the Dark Grey was too dark on the original Aluminum. I applied a light tint PanPastel color over the wash after the wash had dried, but wasn't happy with that either. At that point, I moistened a makeup sponge with water and removed some of the PanPastel and some of the wash under it as well. Basically, I was then in a very painterly mode, working with different materials in a wet-on-wet environment and hopefully knowing when to stop! While my color choice was not ideal for the sides of this car, I will continue to use the Vallejo Wash colors, and I know not to fear tuning up and weathering rolling stock simultaneously.
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