Research, Hiatus, and Next Steps

 

Sisal and static grass foundation

In my last post, I left off with the notion of researching apple orchards, and I found that a fair amount of information and images can be found on the internet. A good first overview can be found here. First of all, while it is not the center of the Washington state apple industry, the area I am modeling (Whatcom county around Ferndale), had apple orchards in the 1950s and continues to have apple orchards.  The scratchbuilt sisal foundations make a reasonable model of apple trees with the proper leaf color and the addition of apples themselves. Looking at a number of photos through different time periods, the addition of ladders, baskets, and boxes would add to the suggestion or appearance of apple orchard. I was not as successful finding appropriate apple picking figures in HO scale. Preiser has a set with figures, baskets, and a ladder. However, the clothing is not correct at all. Before I go too far with this, I should remember that I don't really have a plan for a location for an orchard, This is something to keep in mind for detailed planning in the future. An orchard scene fits the story I am trying to tell, and I should plan on including such a scene as I move into additional phases following my TOMA plans. 

As mentioned in the last post, I learned this sisal technique of scratchbuilding shrubs from a Boomer Diorama video. One of his thoughts on modeling vegetation such as trees and shrubs is to model a specific example. One that I might use is Pacific ninebark or Physocarpus capitatus. These sisal trunk and branch structures are appropriate. The ninebark grows to 12 -18 feet high which is just about what these first examples work out to. I would need to highlight the trunk with several colors and use lighter color leaves than my first samples. Also, the trunk, with its twisting strands appearing somewhat correct, should be fairly hidden by other shorter vegetation. As I plan to model August or September, the white flower clusters of the ninebark would be diminished and transitioning into smaller red/brown seed clusters. Pacific ninebark is native to the area and would be found along stream beds, so it would be a reasonable choice for the trestle scene outside of Nooksack. 

While I have successfully done some research, my plans to form the "at least a few minutes every day" habit has not been that successful. In fact, actual work has been on hiatus. After having a problematic echocardiogram stress test, I was scheduled for a heart catheterization procedure. That procedure, which revealed a blocked artery, transitioned into angioplasty and stent placement. TMI, but the scheduled electrical work has been delayed until I am able to assist with that project. I will soon be able to work with the electrician, and after those projects are complete I can return to prepping more train room space and modeling. 

Restart building a habit: on the workbench and a return to Nooksack:

• Make some Pacific ninebark
• Wooden warehouse
• Nooksack packing house, 15 steps continued
• Rolling stock projects
• Touch toggle cups install on Nooksack

Other next steps:

• Make some real headway on Nooksack
• Phase two of TOMA plans; a new module expanding scenery to the west
• Return to Ingleton as part of train room revitalization

Big Shrubs or Start of an Orchard?

 

Unintended result: apple trees!

While not everyday, but most days I have been working in the basement. One of the "habit forming" projects at the workbench that I mentioned in my last post was making shrubs with sisal rope. The process is outlined below. You can click on the photos to enlarge them and see details more clearly.

I rewatched a Boomer Diorama video on modeling shrubs, taking notes on his process. Once I had the notes and the materials on hand, I started the process thinking that I would explore making inexpensive shrubs and forming the habit of regularly spending time in the basement/trainroom. I had some sisal on hand from a well-used cat tower, several Noch leaf packets and a jar of matte medium from my tub of tree making supplies, and a packet of 12 mm static grass from a recent trip to Trains and Lanes hobby shop. 

The first step was to cut the sisal into two inch lengths before dipping one end into a 50/50 mixture of matte medium and water. The recommended dip into the mixture was one quarter of an inch. In hindsight, I probably went deeper than that, and I believe the thinned matte medium wicks a bit into the sisal fiber. The result needs to dry overnight (or at least for several hours). The next step is to untwist the unglued end and splay out the individual fibers.

Once the sisal fibers are fanned out, the next step is to turn them upside down, dipping them into more of the 50/50 mixture of matte medium, and sprinkling/dabbing on the 12mm static grass. A couple of notes here from the video and my experience: Lay the wet pieces out on wax paper to dry. Use old yogurt cups for mixing and dipping. Save the 50/50 mixture in capped medicine bottles. Wash goopy hands before the matte medium starts to dry, as it dries almost as tightly and hard to remove as super glue. 

After letting my sample shrubs dry overnight, the next step was to "massage" the branches allowing the loose static fibers to fall off. Then the dipping and sprinkling was repeated a second time. After drying, the branches were again "massaged" to remove any lose fibers. One recommended step that I omitted was a third application with 7mm static grass. In this photo, the trunks and branches have been painted with two camouflage rattle can colors, a dark grey/brown from underneath and a much lighter tan from above. 

The final step is to add leaves. In my case, I used Noch medium green leaves. I also have some light green, but I wanted to see what these would look like. For applying the leaves, full strength matte medium is used. Instead of dipping the branches, I followed the recommended process of dabbing full strength matte medium onto sections of the branch structure with a stiff brush. Then, I sprinkled on the leaves. The goal is to apply leaves to the smaller branches without clumping them onto thicker branches or the trunk. 

As seen in this photo, these sisal models make nicely detailed foliage when they are positioned horizontally or with the trunk hidden. They could represent large shrubs or a small tree. While they take some time and effort, their expense is minimal (compared to some commercial shrubs). The few that I have completed could have some drybrushing done to the trunks and some trimming done of an occasional stray fiber as a final step. After researching what large shrubs that I might model, I could fine tune the paint color and airbrush instead of using rattle cans. I could also attempt to adapt my technique to avoid the large groups of sisal fiber reforming and creating thicker branches than I would prefer. 

Looking at the opening photo, the sisal treees as modeled could easily represent apple or other fruit trees with both their size and appearance. This unintended result is making me think that an orchard scene would be an interesting addition to my plans for the model railroad. Afterall, a fruit and produce packing house is one of my current structure projects, and having an orchard represented in the vicinity would reinforce the story. In cursery online research I found a contemporary orchard in Lynden that also has an orchard in Ferndale. With more research I could identify orchard details to represent in such a scene. 

A Restart and Building a Habit

Having returned from a family vacation and seeing the arrival of fall, I am trying to get a fresh start on model railroading. Throughout 2025, the state of the basement has been a gumption trap, and as one of my Susquehanna Division buddies said the other day, "the key to progress starts by just getting down to the basement." We are meeting with our electrician again this week to finalize the plan which includes a switched circuit for lighting for the railroad, a switched circuit and light fixtures for general basement lighting, and updating several other circuits in the basement. This has motivated (i.e. forced) me to begin the process of cleaning out clutter in the basement and to move rolling stock and structures off the existing benchwork to prepare for work to be done directly overhead.

A recent Jason Jensen video also mentioned a technique for making progress. He points to forming a habit of spending time in the train room or at the modeling bench every day. In his view forming the habit is more important than accomplishing specific tasks. I have been trying to do just that, spend some time every day.  

For the most part, I have focused on work on the "basement to train room" transition. However, I have several workbench projects I can also consider in my habit forming quest. One is to continue with the wooden warehouse project that I started months ago. The other is to make some shrubs using a technique from a Boomer Diorama video that I watched. I have the basic materials on hand, and it is a project that breaks down into a series of short steps with drying time in-between. It would be a good project for my attempts to build the daily habit!  

Moving backwards?

 

The TOMA phase one, Nooksack, is moving backwards rather than forwards. Here in this snapshot from earlier this year, one can see the control panel that operated the turnouts. In real life, the spur and passing tracks would not have been part of an interlocking. The switches would be thrown by the train crew. I feel the need to make a change to better model the railroading/operating process. 

Also, we are planning to have some more electrical work done in the basement. To facilitate that I have started packing up rolling stock, locomotives, and structures for safety while work is to be done above the layout.  We are hoping to add or replace several circuits. One is specifically for the model railroad's lighting, and others are for the infrastructure of our home. In either case, some existing wiring and fixtures will be removed and/or added over the model railroad. I am hopeful that prepping for and improving the electrical work will inspire additional upgrades of the basement ambiance. 

As mentioned above, I recently went down the rabbit hole of questioning why I was using a control panel for Nooksack. I like the touch toggles in the control panel, but it appears to represent the model board of an interlocking. In my operations scheme and limited experience operating on other railroads, using a control panel like this does not realistically duplicate the actions taken by the train crew of a local switching crew. I explored how to use the existing touch toggles to craft homemade individual turnout controls, going so far as collecting water bottles to follow a procedure suggested by Gerry Leone for using the top of the water bottles to create a cup for each location. I realized this method would not work on my thicker fascia, so I turned to Berritt Hill, the makers of touch toggles for their Mini-Cup Toggles. In my rabbit hole exploration enthusiasm I ordered the parts, but I will need to hold off for now to focus on clearing out all clutter and finalizing the details of our upcoming electrical work.  

Not only has work slowed down, it is being undone. The turnout controls will need to be redone to better align with my operations scheme. Not only did I make a mistake with that choice, but the larger mistake (not finishing the layout space prep, before starting the railroad) continues to haunt me.

Basement versus Train Room

After returning from the convention in Novi, I have taken a slightly different approach on the railroad. Rather than immediately resuming the work on the packing complex scene, I tried to gather some momentum on prepping more of the basement as semi-finished train room. In a post from the beginning of the year, I discussed how the state of the basement functioned as a major gumption trap. I can't decide if our record wet May and sump pump failure added more to the gumption trap or more motivation to overcome the gumption trap. Seeing some complete model railroads, visiting my friend Brad's railroad, and purchasing a Power Cab system to reactivate the Ingleton switching shelf from its current junk drawer status inspired me to attempt to revisit the transition from basement to train room.

The previous "bar" has been taken down, and I have started removing the worst of the immediate debris. Having watched a few YouTube videos on open French drains, I am still unsure of how to create a berm so the drain doesn't overflow at the one area here where it is not quite deep enough. The slope of the drain does appear to be good, allowing flow to the opposite corner with a floor drain to the dry well. A lot of wood from dismantling the "bar" still needs to be cleaned and moved to the wood shop in the garage. Phase two of my TOMA plan calls for two modules, one based on one brought from Meadville and one totally new one to extend from Nooksack along this wall. Before I get too involved with that, I need to follow through with completing the basement to train room transition, not only here, but throughout the basement. 

Months ago, I purchased a rolling cart from Harbor Freight, and having uncovered the sawhorses covered with junk, finally put it together to use in scenery or other projects on the railroad. I have to say that I was somewhat inspired by seeing Brad's use of his as a workstation as construction continues on his railroad. Putting the cart together was fairly straight forward, although not quick. Beyond the standard socket and screwdriver, the one tool seen here that I really appreciated was the telescoping magnetic pick up tool. An occasional washer or nut slipped from my shakey hands to the floor, but my pick up tool made for quick recovery. When I do return to the packing house scene scenery, the cart will be ready to use as a workstation!

A Scene in Fifteen Steps -- More Updates

 

I got on a roll last week and started on the wooden warehouse. I am using a wooden block as the core, a technique that Bill Schopf from my old division taught us about. In the photo, one can see the strip of plastic stone that I trimmed and folded to suggest the foundation. I cut the side walls from clapboard sheet wood. Delving into my collection of doors and windows, I cut the ones I chose from the sprue and sanded the edges to prep them for spraying with primer. 

Step one, in my list, was to wrap up the brick kitbashed portion of the produce packing complex. In an earlier post, I explained making a shadow box and the lighting in this building. Here in a more recent photo, the wiring of the two LEDs is finished and the shadow box is glued in place. I did paint the interior wall black in front of the open side of the shadowbox before mounting it. Yes, it would have been easier to paint the interior wall before mounting the exterior roof. For the other windows and doors I fashioned black construction paper barriers, so it does not appear as obvious that this building is a flat. 

Unlike working on the structures, several of the steps in my original list of fifteen were relatively quick and easy. I sanded a couple of sections of the cork roadbed where, examining photos, I noticed an overhang or lip where the two halves of the roadbed originally split apart. In looking closely at this photo, I see another one, but it is an easy fix. My friend, Dick Bradley, noted some dramatic brush marks and embedded specks in the sky on this portion of the backdrop quite a while ago. Carefully sanding the backdrop ameliorated the worst of the irregularities. It is tempered hardboard, so it should appear smoother than plywood. Just yesterday, I mixed up some Sculptamold to apply some texture to the terrain between the spur and the mainline. Due to the high humidity, the sculptamold is not fully dry yet today; I plan to wait until it is dry before painting.   

I probably won't get much more done beyond painting the bright white plaster before I start getting ready to travel to Novi, Michigan for the 2025 NMRA convention. Since I am taking our car for the week, I need to make sure my wife is stocked up on everything she will need while I am gone. 

It will be my first national convention and I am looking forward to learning a lot. Today I started getting my tool kit ready as I am signed up for two Modeling With the Masters events. I hope to attend one of the Operations Road Show training sessions.  Once that is scheduled, I can plan my other activities. I want to be sure to visit at least one of the layout tours, a Great Northern railroad depicting a part of the Cascade Division, and I see a variety of interesting clinics from which to choose. 

A Scene in Fifteen Steps -- Step 6, a Photo Backdrop

A photo backdrop has been under consideration all along

In my previous post, I noted my notion of trying Bob Frankrone's approach to completing a scene in fifteen steps. There, I listed fifteen steps to completing the Nooksack Valley produce complex spur scene. In that list, the sixth step was to add a photo backdrop a la Paul Dolkos. As I was preparing a clinic to present for my NMRA division, my focus for the last couple of weeks was on this step.

Early in my planning for this scene, I researched packing plant images, both for structures and entire scene images. In my Google image searches, I came across this site that included a photo that featured the section seen to the left. This scene is fairly modern and includes modern semi-trailers, but it was the best starting point I found.

After living with the original image leaning in place, I decided to make some changes. I took a fairly analog approach. I printed out the original image and resized it to what seemed appropriate on my inkjet printer/copier/scanner. Then I printed several copies to create a collaged version of what I thought I wanted. Using a sharp number 11 blade and glue stick I made several changes by covering the trailer, removing the large fruit boxes, and extending the building to the left in my final collaged image.

I photocopied the collaged image, and after printing it out went ahead and cut out the image I planned to use, again with a sharp hobby knife. As I was working down in the train room this time, I cut on the tempered glass on my workbench.  As inkjet printed images are subject to bleeding if they get wet, I sprayed the image with several layers of Testors Dullcoat. After that protective layer dried, I used a sepia Prismacolor marker to color the white paper along the cut edges. My recommendation would be to use a light gray or sepia colored Prismacolor rather than black or a Sharpie of any color.

For this experiment I used Scotch Super 77 as the adhesive. It is a very aggressive adhesive, so make sure to protect whatever surface you are working on. I used some old packing papers and a paper towel, but still managed to get one spot on the benchwork. I had to go back with lacquer thinner to remove it. The point of using this glue is to avoid the photo peeling off later. 

Before applying the spray adhesive, I marked the location of the where I wanted the photo on the benchwork and experimented with coving the bottom of the photo onto the benchwork. After I applied the spray adhesive and let it dry to tacky, I placed the top in place. After smoothing the top edge down, I carefully smoothed down the bottom on the benchwork leaving a coved or rounded gap between the top and bottom edges. The photo to the left shows the photo glued in place, hopefully hiding the right angle between the backdrop and the benchwork with a coved image. 

The most recent step I have taken was to do some painting on the brown plywood bench top. The goal is to further hide the joint between the photo and the bench top surface. I used grimy black and a slate gray acrylic paint to blend from the ground into the photo. I blended the two colors, wet on wet, as I applied them. I am not entirely happy with the results, but the paint is just the first layer. I will be adding sanded grout, which I may apply up into the photo. Although I don't always follow my own advice, in general it is best to stop before I go too far. I remember Gerry Leone saying in a video that he "tries to stop when he thinks to himself, 'just a little more'."

 

Updates and Goals

I have updates and goals for both the train room (aka the basement) and for the railroad. 

As I left off my last post with wet basement issues, I will start with that. My wife helped me last week on one of our continuing rainy days, and we made a good start on removing the scabbed-in bar. As you can see in the photo, I still have some framework to remove. The damp floor in what I was calling "the floodplain" can also be seen. Not labeled, but suggested is the approximately one inch wide "French Drain Canal" between the green concrete floor and the yellow wall. Judging from the existing rot, the floodplain has been an ongoing issue, exacerbated by our wettest May on record. A steady stream of water was flowing into the "canal" until about ten days ago. I will need to build a lip along the floor (a levee) to prevent the canal from overflowing here in the future. 

In addition to the wet basement abatement, another goal for this summer consists of more electrical work. The sump pump and water conditioner are currently powered through a gnarly extension cord draped across the ceiling. They need a direct line. Renee wants some general lighting in the basement with a switch. I want a line to outlets for the railroad lighting (current and future) also switched. Plus our three season room's outlets need to be reconnected and a few more receptacles added in the basement. This really should be done before any significant  additions to the railroad are contemplated! We need a firm plan and easy access before we call in the professional. 

I want to continue with this area around the fruit and produce spur. I am giving a clinic soon, and I would like to try using the photo that I have propped up against the backdrop in this image and share the results. It actually isn't a straight photo; I collaged parts of the photo to make changes. The other experiment is to cove or curve the photo from mounted to the backdrop to glued to the benchtop. I will need to remember to coat the photo (printed on my inkjet printer) with a fixative so that water based scenery doesn't make the colors bleed or otherwise destroy the image.  Then I can experiment with first layers of scenery and weathering to blend the road surface onto the benchwork. 

Several years ago I attended a clinic by Bob Frankrone about completing a scene in fifteen steps, and thought I might try that approach to the fruit and produce spur area. Here is a to do list of my fifteen:

1. Last steps on brick building
2. Warehouse a la Bill Schopf (multiple steps)
3. Sand the cork edge
4. Sand the painted sky 
5. White wash for atmospheric haze
6. Photo backdrop a la Paul Dolkos
7. Sculptamold for texture
8. Paint and first layer of scenery
9. More layers of scenery 
10. Fence
11. Tie pile 
    
12. 12 volt DC lighting bus
13. Connect lights
14. Ballast spur
15. Details

In this prototype photo of the Interbay Yard in Seattle, I really like the area between the tracks in the bottom right area: a little uneven terrain, some tall grass and shrubs, and a pile of ties. This photo is from the digital library at the Cornell University. 

U.S. President's Railroad Commission Photographs

Experiments with Lighting

About a week ago, during our sump pump failure*, I started my experiments with lighting the brick building that I have been working on for the fruit and produce company. 

As I mentioned in my last post, I planned to have interior lighting on one side of the building. I found a photograph from a Google search for warehouse interior images to use. I decided to cut and paste parts of two print outs of the photo to form a collaged image without the people in the original image. I  resized, photocopied, and colored the resulting black and white image with colored pencils. 

I created the shadowbox by hot glueing some black foam core sides and a top together. One cutting trick that I learned from this experiment involves the surface on which it is best to cut foam core. My tempered glass base on the workbench is much superior to using the self healing cutting mat. The hard glass provides for a smooth cut on the bottom paper surface, while the softer cutting mat allows the bottom paper layer to tear. I found the difference to be remarkable. After the shadowbox joints were set, I glued the paper image to the top of the back of the box, leaving it loose to roll into place. 

The next step was to mount the two LEDs. I had decided to order the Pico Z mini lights from Evan Design and try them. I drilled a hole through the wall above the window between the garage doors on the right hand side of the building. Then I glued the LED in place on the underside of the dock roof with canopy glue. For the shadowbox, I poked a hole in the roof of the box and reamed it out so a straw would fit. After placing the straw through the hole and extending into the shadowbox about a quarter of an inch, I snipped it off flush with the top of the foam core roof. Next, I glued the LED wires to the roof with canopy glue, with the LED chip in the straw but not exposed below it. 

Today, I checked the two LEDs and they worked, so I went ahead and started figuring out the wiring. It is not that tricky at all, but I don't have much experience. The LEDs come with resistors wired in on red and black wires. My plan is to wire the two LEDs in parallel and extend the length with some 28 gauge twisted red and black wire. I have a scrap piece of wood on my workbench, and I have it set up so that I can tape the wire in place for soldering. I stripped the end of the extension wire and slipped some shrink tubing over it. I have the first connection in place, so in my next session I can get out the soldering equipment and make some connections. 

*Wet Basement Issues

We have had a really wet May here in the Poconos and our infrastructure failed. While the French drain and associated "dry well(?)" that it flows into have worked, the sump pump burned out with water spreading into the basement/train room on the opposite end of the basement last week. Luckily, we found a company that came out the next day to replace the pump, and most of that flood has since dried up. We do, however, have two apparent artesian well or heightened water table "faucets" from the base of the wall into the exposed French drain . They are both still flowing steadily, and along one section of "French Drain Canal  (FDC)" we need to fashion some kind of levee once this situation dries out. The flow of water is greater than the depth of FDC there creating a floodplain on one section of the basement floor. This is located where TOMA phase two of the railroad will be located.  The Nooksack or TOMA phase one section and my workbench area floors have remained dry. Having managed water flowing around the edge of the basement in FDC is one thing, accepting a potential floodplain is problematic. Theme song for the last week or so: Levee's Gonna Break
 

Fruit and Produce Company -- Part 4?

In my last post, several weeks ago, I left off with a punch list for the main building. During the past rainy week, I have tried to return to working for a little while on the model most days, and it has led to some progress.

One of the first steps from last weekend was to clear off the plate glass on my workbench so that I could make clean cuts in clear acetate. I found some clear stock in my plastics drawer, and after measuring started cutting pieces for the windows. I used Formula 560 canopy glue, applied to the back of the window and door inserts with a micro-brush, to mount the window "glass." Knowing that I was planning on adding interior lighting later, the smart move would have been to paint the interior walls with black acrylic while the building was upside down. I did not make the smart move. 

Having checked off one task from the list, I moved on to the roof. I cut some strips of three scale feet from black construction paper. Before returning the canopy glue to its shelf, I coated the styrene roof with the glue and applied the black paper to represent tar paper on the roof. After the glue dried I tried painting with roof brown acrylic paint, but didn't really like the look. I later painted the tar paper roof with flat grimy black. After two coats of that, I was happier with it. 

While it was not on my original punch list, I decided to add the medium air conditioner from the Walthers Roof Details kit in my stash. I cut the appropriate pieces from the sprue and sanded the edges to remove any tiny nubs left by my nippers. I assembled the detail kit with liquid solvent cement, managing to only have one slightly crooked wall with my shaky hands. After the air conditioner dried overnight, I filled the small open joint at the top of that wall with Tamiya putty. While assembling the air conditioner, I sprayed the sprue with the tile coping from the original grocery distributor kit with a red primer rattle can. After that had dried, I pieced together the tile coping on the brick walls. 

Over just the past couple of days, I continued to make my way through a few more items from the punch list. I struggled to add the roof over the loading dock. In hind sight, I should have not used the plastic hangers from the kit, but instead fabricated new ones from wire. But I went ahead, using the kit supplied ones. First of all, my shaky hands exacerbated my apparent need for three hands to hold and glue the hangers, roof, and structure wall together all at the same time. Thank goodness no one was watching or listening to me during that ordeal. Because one of the hangers was missing, I also had to deal with the extra holes. I planned to hide the hole in the wall with the building's sign. I filled the hole in the roof with putty. That meant that the roof needed to be painted after it was installed. I had sprayed it a gray color previously, but now I brush painted it a darker gray Vallejo color. While it looked kind of awful wet, after drying overnight the color and brush marks both flattened out. Today, before taking the photos, I applied some weathering with chalks and pigments as well as finally cutting out and gluing on the paper sign that I had designed and printed out on my inkjet printer weeks ago.

I still have a couple of items from the punch list. Looking at this photo from an observer's point of view, some kind of lighting is definitely needed. My plan is to fashion a light under the dock roof on one side and to place an interior light on the other side. I have some LED lights and supplies from Evan Designs to experiment with, so I might as well get on the ball. Along with lighting, I plan to add some simple interior details: window shades and black paper view blocks if nothing else. 

Looking at this scene from this angle, two things spring to mind. One is that I should attempt a more accurate mockup of the adjacent building than the blue scrap wall flat. The other idea is the possibility of starting some first layer of scenery around this scene. 

Before starting any of that, I will work out the lighting for this building in order to wrap it up. Seeing the progress I have made recently should keep me motivated. Beyond scenery here, I have a photo/collage in the works to experiment with on the backdrop that goes to the right of the green-roofed warehouse in the photo. I want to include that in a presentation that I am giving in June, so I have a goal/deadline for scenery along the backdrop here after this major building for the Nooksack Fruit and Produce Company is completed.  

Slowing Down, but Still Moving Forward

 

The Nooksack Valley Fruit and Produce Company Co. project is moving forward in fits and starts, but at not much above glacial speed. As a total aside, you can follow my wife and me on our garden project here, which helps explain my slowing down on the railroad. The lead photo here shows the current state of the building. Its wall color has been finalized, the basic roof is in place, and the loading dock is finished. In this post I will discuss some of these steps and list the remaining steps to finally wrap up this project. 

I left off my last post on this project with the walls built, but unsure of the color to paint the bricks. It took a couple of attempts. First I sprayed the completed walls with a rattle-can primer in a khaki color. After that had dried I started to sponge on some acrylic craft paint off-white and tan colors. As I was really unhappy with the look, I stopped part way through and cleaned off as much of it as I could with a damp paper towel before it had a chance to set up. The next day I masked the concrete foundation with painter's tape and sprayed with a white rattle-can lightly over the walls. I stopped short of complete or even thorough coverage to allow some subtle variation. While out in the garage with spray paints, I sprayed the doors and windows with a dark green primer. After yet another overnight drying session, I applied several light applicatiions of Vallejo Wash colors; I just touched the saturated brush tip to the wall allowing the wash to flow through the mortar lines. I finally had something close to the subtly worn white, painted brick look I had envisioned. 

While I had been using the scratchbuilt loading dock from another building for my planning, I wanted to build one specific to this building. After taking some measurements, I drew up plans for this one and created a cut list for the strip wood needed.  I cut the pieces to length with either my Zona razor saw or on the Chopper. (Something happened while cutting the deck boards on the Chopper as later I found them to have length variations.) After they were cut, I stained them with Hunterline Cordovan Brown weathering mix. Later when I started assembling the dock, I tried a new technique that I picked up from a Thunder Mesa Studio video by Dave Meek. Instead of building on the drawing covered by wax paper, add another layer to allow for a fixture technique. Tape the drawing to a piece of foamcore before covering it with wax paper, so that a starting piece can be pegged into place with pins. That provides a rigid piece to fit and glue the other pieces to. This photo shows this technique in use as I glued up the frame for the dock. While gluing on the deck boards, I used a metal block lined up with one of the long deck frame boards to keep the decking boards even on that side. After the glue dried, I went back and turned the deck upside down and trimmed some of the longer decking back with a chisel-bladed hobby knife. That, some sanding, and gouging with a hobby knife, turned inaccurate cutting into part of the weathering of a well-worn loading dock!

To wrap up this slow moving building project I need to:

• Finalize the roof; maybe paint, maybe tar paper.
• Decide on coping for the top of the walls, then apply and paint
• Window glazing and any interior
• Roof over loading dock
• Lighting
• Signage

Golden Spike Award Clinic

The Golden Spike Award can be seen as an entry into the NMRA's Achievement Program or as a guide into improving one's model railroad skill set (or both). On Saturday, I will be giving a short presentation on the NMRA Golden Spike at a virtual meeting of the Susquehanna Division. This is an updated version of a clinic prepared for the Alleghany Western Division a number of years ago. 

Below, I will provide links to a downloadable version of my clinic. In addition to a PDF of the presentation, I want to also provide a link to an NMRA web page that doesn't have an obvious link from the Achievement page on the NMRA website. For registered NMRA members, the Edutrain clinics include a useful one by Bruce DeYoung, MMR for which I will provide a link. His clinic is geared towards both someone hoping to achieve the award as well as giving guidance for evaluating others. 

1. Download a PDF of the presentation here: Golden Spike V.3
2. Open the "hidden" NMRA page explaining the Golden Spike 
3. Open the NMRA "Edutrain" clinic on the Golden Spike Award

Initial Operations Update

 

Just in the last few days, I created a new, freelanced piece of operations paperwork in Pages (one could use Word or any word process application). A recent blog post by Tony Thompson in Modeling the SP discussed using Train Line-ups for operating. He shared a Southern Pacific standard form. After a brief search online, I didn't find a GN form so I adapted the Clearance Form A that I had reproduced as part of my collection of somewhat prototype paperwork. 

As I continue to work on the first phase of my 4th Subdivision branch line railroad, I plan to start with very simple operations approach: sequence of trains. This Daily Train Line-up form provides a basis for using train sequence somewhat prototypically. In Tony's earlier post here, particularly in the comments, he discusses the use of a train line-ups form as a paperwork foundation for outlining an operating scheme. 

In this earlier post, Thompson also mentioned the "On Operation" column by Jerry Dziedzic in the February 2019 Model Railroader. While the train line-ups described in the article were targeting the safety of track gangs, they also could be thought of as a snapshot of a schedule. With my one-town initial TOMA approach, using the Train Line-ups form could substitute until I later develop a timetable and fast clock system. 

Fruit and Produce Company -- Part 2

Main building started

Back in December I introduced the idea of the Nooksack Valley Fruit and Produce Co. as a fruit packing complex to be located in the town of Nooksack. Having drafted a revision (or actually a new version) of one of my clinics for an upcoming Susquehanna Division meeting a few days ago, I have returned to working on the packing house complex. 

For this low relief building kitbashed from parts from the Walthers Grocery Distributor kit, I first returned to the photocopies of the wall sections to determine where I would need to make cuts to fashion the brick walls. I gathered the molded plastic pieces and tools that I would need before marking and cutting the brick wall sections to match my paper mockup. I scored the cuts in the wall with a hobby knife and then used a fine-bladed Zona saw to finish the cuts. I also sanded the edges and any sprue tabs. I trimmed the door and window castings off their sprues and sanded any little tabs left before collecting them all in a plastic bowl, so they won't get lost on my workbench. 

Yesterday I assembled the wall sections. As seen in the photo, I used some Evergreen styrene strip that I have on hand as foundation and bracing. Years ago, when I was still in Seattle, I was able to pick up a large bundle of various styrene strips for pennies as a hobby shop went out of business. I used .125 x .125 to extend the foundation and corner bracing. I also used .060 x .060 and .030 x .100 to fit around the molded-in ridges to even the corners and supports. Having learned one lesson on the kitbashed structure I built for the Ingleton plank, I paid close attention to making sure the corners were square and plumb. The Plastruct solvent worked fine, but using the brush-in-the-bottle made for extremely sloppy glue joints. Here on the interior, they will not be visible. As I plan to scratchbuild another low relief building for this complex, I will need to come up with another technique if I build it from styrene. In the current (March 2025) NMRA Magazine, Jack Hamilton MMR discusses glue/solvent application tools. Perhaps it is time for me to invest in a "Touch-N-Flow" device. At the very least, I should use a much smaller natural bristle brush for trim joints that will be visible. 

Staying focused on this building, the next step is painting. A few months ago, while shopping in Stroudsburg, PA, I took this quick snapshot of the back of some older industrial buildings. It has some nice prototype weathering of bricks and adjoining wooden siding to use. However, I am still thinking that the brick building in my packing house complex should be painted white. I spent some time yesterday looking online for packing house images and many of them are white. I just haven't found an image to use as a model for a paint scheme that I am happy with yet. I once saw a video with Gerry Leone using hairspray to create worn/chipped white paint effects on bricks, but that might be too dilapidated of a look. This is not an abandoned packing house, just a hard working one.  I think I will do a little more online "research" and see what rattle can primer colors I have in stock. Maybe a red primer with a white wash/dry brush over it? I just don't want to inflict analysis paralysis on myself!

 

Wrapping Up a Quick Build for Nooksack

Having repaired the buckled track work here in Nooksack, I returned to the workbench to finish a small craftsman kit that I started a few weeks ago. This is the Juniper Freight House, a Fos Scale Models kit. When I first ordered it I intended to use it as part of the Curtis Cannery complex. Now, I am thinking that I will use it, at least temporarily, here in the front of the benchwork where I have thought I would have a fuel supply company. It may become a lumber and fuel supply company. This little freight house fits nicely here, between the fascia and the spur track. Signage and details will have to wait until I determine the structure's use. 

This was the first kit that I have built from Fos Scale Models. The instructions were complete and relatively clear. The drawings showing the location of bracing were particularly helpful. By bracing the walls, they did not warp with staining or painting. I did let them dry under weight which may have helped prevent warping too. I used Hunterline Driftwood stain on the walls and for unpainted wood. I drybrushed Americana Buttermilk on the walls after the stain had dried to give the appearance of worn and weathered paint. For the plastic windows, I used a rattle can dark green, while I brush painted the wood trim and freight doors with Vallejo's Camo Olive Green. 

The only complaint I have with this kit is with the rolled roofing material. It is packaged folded and I couldn't figure out how to completely remove the fold. In the future, I would use the Jason Jensen technique of using black construction paper. Another step I would take in the future is to more carefully sand the glueing edges along the top and bottom of the walls, so the trim boards line up exactly with the laser cut walls. This was operator error, not the fault of the kit. Overall the quality of the kit is quite good. Both Jason Jensen and Fos Scale have some excellent You Tube videos on craftsman kit construction, painting, and weathering. They both are modeling really run down urban areas, so I am not attempting to weather as drastically as they do. Their techniques are worth emulating though.

I have another of the Fos Scale Models kits to build, but I think that I should focus on the buildings of the two complexes that I have already started here in Nooksack: the cannery and the packing house, seen here behind the recently completed freight house.  I felt a sense of accomplishment from actually completing something before moving on to something new. I hope to build on that feeling and make some progress on the kitbashed and scratchbuilt industries already under way here in Nooksack.  

Buckled Track Repair

 

Although I thought that track work (and track wiring) was complete here on the first phase, it turns out that I was mistaken. Gremlins appeared. In my last post, just a few days ago, I mentioned that the track had buckled on the passing track at Nooksack. After further review I suspect that the cause is not exclusively rail expansion, but at least partially benchwork wood shrinking with the low humidity of our house with the furnace blasting this winter. In addition, the turnout to the left of the buckled track has twisted and no longer lies flat causing derailments. 

At first I considered what I thought to be the easiest solution: unsolder the rail joiners, cut off a bit of each rail, and resolder the joiners. I wouldn't have to make any changes to the wiring; the existing feeders would still be adequate. However, what might happen in the summer when the wood expands? I decided to take a different approach.

I got out my Dremel and using the cutting disk, cut a new gap in the buckled track. After filing the ends of the rail flat, the flex track straightened and the turnout flattened down. The cutting disk left an appropriate gap. I removed some of the ties, filed the rail ends, and slid rail joiners onto the rails. With everything back in place after gapping the rails, both the track and the turnout were realigned. By not soldering the new joiners, the rails can move with the changes in humidity/temperature through the seasons. But. . . now we have a possible electrical gap, as loose rail joiners are notoriously untrustworthy.  

Needing to add a set of feeders to ensure connectivity, I fetched my electrical toolbox. Knowing that this approach entailed dropping feeders, I had plugged in my soldering iron as an early step.  A hot iron, having all materials gathered (yes, literally in a toolbox), and tinning the rail and feeders before soldering the feeders in place made for quick work. I tested continuity between the feeder ends under the benchwork and the rails with my multimeter before joining the feeders to the DCC bus wires with suitcase connectors. Cleaning up and putting the track tub and wiring toolbox away left only a repeat of replacing several ties as tasks in the basement. 

While writing this post, I remembered that I needed to add the new gap and feeders to my "Propulsion Circuitry Diagram" in the three ring binder that I have started towards the Electrical Achievement Program should I chose to attempt it in the future. It is good practice to document what is going on down under the model railroad in any event, NMRA AP or not.