While drawing the scale plans, I also created a cut list of how many pieces of each size of "lumber" I would need. I installed a new blade in my Chopper and rotated the self-healing mat. Then I went ahead and started cutting all the pieces, including a few extra of each size. The Chopper is a real time saver, and it allows for consistent and accurate cuts. While saving time, I always remind myself to not rush, as the user must pay attention to that sharp razor blade while pulling the finished pieces out.
After cutting all the lengths of stripwood, the next step was to stain them all. The stain I had on hand was Hunterline's "Raw Umber" weathering mix. While applying it full strength, it is a warm dark colored stain. Jumping ahead of myself here, after assembling the dock, I was not happy with the final color. At the time I let the pieces dry overnight, and went ahead with the assembly of the loading dock.
After the the strip wood had dried overnight, I started assembly of the dock. While I found that my shaky hands were a bit of a hindrance, I still got into a zone with glueing the loading dock together and never stopped for "in progress" photos. I first taped down my scale drawing on my workbench's plate glass and then taped a sheet of wax paper over the drawing. I used wood glue applied with a toothpick for assembly. I gathered the tools I planned to use: two squares, an older Stanley square with a heavy metal base and a small Zona square, and a pair of tweezers. I glued up the 8" X 16" frame right over the drawing. I then spread enough of the glue for around four or five of the deck boards. Using the base of the Stanley as a backstop or partial jig and the Zona to square up the just applied deck boards, applying the individual boards went smoothly and quickly. After the deck and frame had a chance to set up, I turned it over to glue in the posts. As I mentioned earlier, after the loading dock was completed, I was not satisfied with the dock color. I sanded the surface of the deck to lighten it somewhat and applied a light wash of a different color. I am thinking it it is an acceptable solution, but not ideal.As seen in the photo above, The kitbashed Associated Grocers warehouse is close to completion. To get to this state I completed several steps in addition to building the loading dock. I glued in the windows and doors, attached the clear styrene window glazing, taped masking tape behind some of the windows to represent window shades, and fit black construction paper behind the windows. I cut and fit a styrene roof for the main structure adding simulated tar paper and several vents. I painted and glued on the roof over the loading dock from the Walthers kit. Also, I used the concrete steps from the kit, but the paint I used appears too light in the photo. An easy solution will be to apply the same wash that I applied to the foundation. To get this photo I had to add some side lighting, as the roof over the loading dock creates a shadow hiding the loading dock and doors which should conceptually be the focus of the building.
The next steps all revolve around highlighting rather than hiding the loading dock area. First of all, I need to continue down the rabbit hole of adding lighting. I ordered several components of the "Just Plug" lighting system, but once I had them, I found a major problem. Yesterday, I traveled to a brick and mortar store not too far from our home (Trains and Lanes in Easton) to pick up some additional components. The loading dock needs some details in addition to lighting. As this structure is intended to provide some sure spots to add operational interest, I also need to add some signage numbering the doors.
Learning Points:
- Experiment with stains ahead of time and develop a "go-to" mix.
- Remember the purpose of the building in making design and construction decisions.
- This project is not reflective of actual time spent in structure building; unpacking, organizing, and waiting for materials all ate up time and energy.
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