Nooksack: Wiring Complete and Checked

Since my last post I have checked off more from my to-do list with only one real hiccup.  

I moved the NCE DCC system to the shelf under the Nooksack Module. As the railroad grows, I will have four power districts, but the two NCE EB1s that I already have will be fine for now. The LED lights and the DCC system are all on a surge protector plugged into the new circuit in the basement. So, the railroad can be turned on with one switch. On the day that I set up the command station, I tested the track and had power to all the tracks. I also plugged in the Touch Toggles, and after adjusting the spring wire of the one turnout that I moved last spring, all the turnouts appeared to be working. 

The next day, I fit the Touch Toggles into the revised control panel, cleaned the track, and unpacked the throttles. Well, when I plugged in either of the throttles, the screen did not advance past the version, date, and time screen. After contacting some folks from my old NMRA division and exploring online, I replaced batteries without any better results. Finally, I unplugged the cable from the command station to the UTPs and plugged a throttle into the command station directly. Eureka, it worked. Troubleshooting the next day, I discovered that despite being "sure" that I had run the cab bus cables perfectly, I had actually plugged a cab bus cable into the wrong side of a UTP. With that correction made, I was back on track. Today, I ran a locomotive and a few cars around successfully. 

I have some track to prep and paint, and the masonite backdrops are ready to paint the sky color. However, I think that I need to prioritize a final plan for the east staging. One idea that I have already explored is to use the narrow, hollow-core door from our bathroom remodel. Do I want to learn how to wire through foam and hollow door? Or, do I want to use a technique that I am familiar with? I don't want to spend a lot of money for a temporary staging module, so the next question is, "What do I have on hand already?" That's not just for benchwork, but also track. Also, some of the big interrelated steps (operations, scenery, and structures) while in one-town mode need to move from notions to a plan!

 

Nooksack in Place: Finalizing the Installation

 

In my last post I contemplated how straightforward my checklist of tasks would be. So far, I have been able to deal with potential stumbling blocks by shifting the order of tasks a bit and buying a new tool. In this post, I'll break down the steps I took to finalize the installation of these first sections and craft a plan for the next few steps.

Checking the benchwork for level and the legs for plumb was not only the first step, but also a recurring step. What became the next or second step was to screw the benchwork to the L-girder seen lag screwed to the stud wall in the back of the snapshot to the left. I made sure to label the locations of the drywall screws up through the L-girder with arrows in red Sharpie. I needed to start attaching the 1/8" masonite backdrop as well during this process. In the back, I attached the backdrop to the studs with panel brads. On the other hand, I used drywall screws with finishing washers to screw the backdrop to the back of the benchwork as the backdrop turned the corner. 

At that point I attempted to bolt the legs in place with 1/4" carriage bolts. I had the bolts on hand, but when I started to drill the holes, I found that my drill motor with the bit installed would not fit between the benchwork cross members. A quick trip to the local Harbor Freight, and I had the solution: the ninety-degree angle attachment. So far, it worked quite well. All of the legs of the Nooksack modules were bolted in place with two bolts per leg. 
 

After sanding the seam and applying fiberglass tape, I went ahead and hung two LED fixtures that I had on hand. The one on the left is a 32" light from the Meadville layout, the one on the right is a four foot fluorescent fixture with 5000K LED replacement tubes. The color is obviously different. I also have 4300K LED tubes in a different fixture. I will experiment with replacing one or both of the 5000K with 4300K.

Now that Nooksack is lit, I can start mudding the seam and visible nail heads. With the benchwork installation finalized, I will move the command station and start the process of completing and checking the wiring. 

 

Nooksack: Behind Schedule, but Moving Forward

With my wife's help today, the Nooksack backdrops and modules are in place! Now I can finalize the installation of both by going through this checklist:

• Checking for level
• Bolting rather than just clamping the legs in place
• Screwing the benchwork to the L-girder along the back
• Nailing and screwing the backdrop panels in place
• Taping and mudding the first coat on the seam and nails in the backdrop

Then I can move on to some other important first steps:

• Instal the existing LED lights over the benchwork
• Move and set up the DCC command station 
• Set up the control panel and touch toggles
• Check all electrical
• Track Power
• Cab bus
• Tortoise power and action
• Identify and fix any issues

In theory these should all be fairly straightforward tasks. We shall see. Then I can move on into the next phases following the TOMA approach. I have some ideas for most of these, but I really wanted to get Nooksack working before going too far with any of them.

• Staging
• Scenery and structures
• Operations
• Rolling Stock
• Presentation: Valance, skirting, floor paint etc.