Foundry Track Structure - Plant #4

Wanting to take a break from track laying and wiring, I recently started building Plant #4, a Walthers background building, as a structure for the foundry track at Willow Springs. While the building itself is a stock kit, I did design a scratchbuilt loading dock for it as a replacement for the supplied concrete steps.

The brick structure was fairly easy to build and has nice details. As the sides were molded in a different color from the front panel, a first step was to paint the wall panels. I used Rust-Oleum 2X Flat Red primer, which covered well without obscuring the molded brick details. The mortar wash was a combination of white and raw umber acrylic along with water and a spritz of window cleaner. The next time I apply a mortar wash, I plan to try 70% alcohol instead of water. After the wash dried I scrubbed the brick surface with a pink eraser to remove excess white.  As a final step in painting the brick walls, I toned them down with a slight application of Red Iron Oxide Pan Pastels. Before assembling the building, I painted the window sills and foundation parts with Concrete Flat Model Master. I painted the windows and door with Poly Scale Empire Green (actually a greyish dark brown). I ended up painting the roof panels this same color as I was unhappy with the coverage with Model Master's Grimy Black Flat. It would be excellent used as a weathering wash, but did not cover as a base color over the plastic roof panels. Other than modifying two of the windows, so that they appear to be open, I followed the instructions for construction of the model.

The loading dock for this structure was a simple introduction to scratchbuilding techniques. Basically, I used a process described by Gerry Leone in a Dream, Plan, Build video. The Walthers building parts and the existing cork on the layout provided the necessary measurements to draw up a plan. The scale size of the lumber for the dock was partially determined by what I had on hand: 6" X 12" for the framing, 3" X 12" for the decking, and 9" X 9" for the posts. I precut the pieces to length on my Northwest Shortline "Chopper".



Having a scale drawing to use as a template is key to this project. After cutting sufficient wood for the entire project, I stained it with my Prego Jar mix, 70% alcohol, India ink, and raw umber acrylic paint. While the pieces dried I taped the drawing down on my work space's plate glass with blue painter's tape. Then I covered the template with wax paper, also taped in place. The first step was to construct the frame directly over the template drawing. I used Aleene's Tacky Glue to glue the parts together. After the framework dried, I set up a backrest or jig as seen in the photo to the right. Then it was a straightforward process to apply glue to the top of the frame and attach five or six deck pieces at a time. After the decking dried, I turned the dock over and glued the posts in place. I later added the bracing to the front of the dock as a final flourish.

With the basic building and dock now constructed, the next step will be to add some additional detailing. At this point I am considering several options:

• Filling the interior with a black construction paper curtain to hide the blue backdrop
• Signage on the building
• "Stuff" on the loading dock
• A shadow box interior for a second floor "office"
• A light over the door

East Staging -- DCC and Independent Control of Staging Tracks

While it first appears straight forward to wire a small staging module, my East Staging section turned out to be somewhat complicated.

Wiring under the East Staging Module: DCC feeders,  DC bus,
individual track power control panel to the far right.

With sound decoders in each of the locomotives waiting on the staging tracks, I wanted to be able to turn the power off and on for each track. Since I also wanted to be able to identify whether the tracks had power by a visual signal, I needed to start a 12 volt DC bus on this module to power LEDs as well as building lights or other accessories on the rest of the layout. Finally, as noted in the previous post, I am starting a 12 volt touch-toggled, Tortoise switch machine bus at this module as well.

The first step was to drop feeders from each of the rails, either to connect to the DCC bus or a control panel for the staging tracks. After soldering the feeders to the outside of the rails, I painted the ties and track with a brown satin rattle can. After the paint dried, I cleaned the top of the rails and used a Dremel tool with a cut-off disk to cut gaps in the outer or "black" rails. Then I returned to the underside of the module and the construction of the track power control panel.

Schematic

Powering the feeders was not complicated, but the control panel took some planning. The schematic to the right was what I came up with. As the actual wiring starts to be a bit of a rat's nest, I wanted to keep some sort of record of what is actually going on. The panel itself was made from a scrap piece of masonite, with holes cut for sub mini slide switches (RS 275-0033) and LED assemblies (RS 276-0271)  from Radio Shack.

Control Panel Rat's Nest

To the left is the so-called rat's nest behind the panel. Black Wires from the DCC bus and to the track were soldered to one side of the DPDT slide switches, while the other side controlled the LEDs with connections (red and white wires) to the DC bus that originates at this modules.


While both the bill box and the track power control panel still need labeled, the East Staging tracks are live with independent control. Accomplishment of some trackage ready to run trains can be seen in the photo below.

East Staging -- Turnout Controls and Track Diagram

One of the items on my list to get trains running, probably the most complicated, was to set up the East Staging module with wiring and control panels. While I did the DCC wiring first, this first post will discuss the turnout controls.

East Staging track diagram and turnout control panel supports
are in place but the glue is not dry yet.

While I had the module built and Tortoise turnouts installed, the module had no wiring. I intended to set it up with the ability to turn the power off and on to individual tracks. Initially the plan was to have one control panel for controlling track power and turnouts, but drilling the plexiglass was intimidating to me, and I didn't want to buy special drill bits. I saw an advertisement for touch toggles in a recent Railroad Model Craftsman magazine and after looking at Berritt Hill's website, went ahead and ordered the parts to control the two turnouts. As the turnout control panel would be mounted on the fascia, I also cut and mounted a hardboard fascia to the staging module. Part of my rationale is to try out this touch toggle and track diagram system and potentially use it later for the seven turnouts on the other side of the layout. When it is time to tackle the Willow Springs side of the layout, I will order DC extension cables as well as another base unit and additional touch toggles. My understanding is that I will be able to daisy chain out from this initial set-up.

For this staging module, I initially ordered a 12 volt power supply, a 2 output direct base, and a pair of one-light-red-green touch toggles.

Installation was fairly straight forward. The two wires from each switch machine screw into the blue connector seen at the top of the base unit, which I mounted to the fascia with #6 x 3/4 screws. The toggles also plug into the base unit, as does the power supply. Then the toggles just tape in place behind a printed control panel mounted in an inexpensive frame. If the red-green LED does not initially coordinate with the track plan, it is easy to switch the two wires in the appropriate blue connector.

While writing this post, the glue has dried, so I will go paint the supports that I cut out of scrap plywood. When the paint has dried and I have mounted the frame, I will have a labeled track diagram with snazzy color-coded touch toggles.

Setting Up the DCC System Part 3: Bus Wires

The first small step taken for reaching the goal of running trains by the end of October was to run the DCC bus wires.

I described setting up the DCC system with two circuit breakers, NCE EB1s, dividing the layout into two power districts in an earlier post. In the photo above, one can see the bus for each with the end of the eastern power district visible towards the front of the layout. Each bus is made up of a pair of #14 red and black wires. Black out, or towards the aisle, is the protocol that I have established for consistent "polarity," and I drilled holes in the supports to allow room for my plan to use suitcase connectors to attach the feeder wires.

The photo to the left shows the end of the "Power District West." I terminated this bus at a European style terminal strip or barrier strip. After the drop down staging has been designed and built, it will also be powered by this power district. All I needed to do at this end of the bus was to tin the stranded #14 wire before screwing it into the terminal strip. For the standard barrier strips I soldered on #6 spade connectors.

The photo to the right shows the "tee" for "Power District East." The bus begins at a circuit breaker on the other side of the panel and then separates into the two sides of the top of the "tee" at the barrier strip. I decided on this approach as the circuit breaker is located in the middle of the power district. 

The photo to the left shows the east end which terminates in a barrier strip and a Molex connecter. As the staging module that connects to the layout at this end already is set up with a Molex connector, I decided to stay with that system here. 

At this point the bus wires are installed for the DCC system. No matter where I decide to start laying track and wiring it, the bus is set up and ready.

Plan for October

Well, we are back from vacation, wife's family reunion in New Jersey and Civil War battlefields in Virginia, and it is time to make some actual progress on the layout. Since the last post in August, I have gone down several rabbit holes with the railroad. I started exploring the standards I will follow for rolling stock, thinking about the logging road that interchanges at Willow Junction (will it have custom decals? what will the numbering system be?) and researching more about supporting industries. In addition to these sidetracking issues, I had a problem with overlapping goals and being unsure how to  order them.

I think that the best approach to make some progress is to set a specific goal and determine a clear set of smaller steps in order to accomplish said goal. The goal is: Be able to run trains by the end of October.  The following list is a draft of the so-called smaller steps. While it is tentatively in the order that I intend to follow, I may have to adjust the order. Neither wiring or track laying are my favorite hobby activities, but I really need to focus and try to achieve this goal without allowing myself to be too distracted with other activities such as scenery, rolling stock, structures, or operations.

• DCC bus to Willow Springs side of layout
• DCC bus, a "tee" out to Willow Junction side of layout
• Install the program track and some associated track around Willow Junction
• Wire the program track and switch
• Test first tracks
• Prep wye turnout for box company spur
• Set up Switch It and maybe the button controls for Willow Springs side of layout
• Order Tortoise motors
• Prep turnouts for Willow Springs side, use techniques from previous post and remove springs
• Finish track laying and wiring for Willow Junction
• Temporary bridge using section track
• East staging wiring, control panel, and DC bus
• Track laying and wiring for Willow Springs
• Cab bus and plug ins wired
• Control panel for Willow Springs
• West staging built

Preparation for Laying Track

With the backdrops painted and the cork down, it is time to actually lay the track with the goal of actually running some trains. I will take a how-to approach to this post as I am trying some new techniques and I am learning how to do some of this myself.

Prepping the Cork for Turnouts

Materials                                     

• Scrap cork
• Hobby knife 
• Hobby knife with #17 blade
• Machinist's square
• Scale rule
• Sharpie
• Sanding block 
• Wood glue
• Drill with 1/4" bit
• Flat black latex paint
• Grey latex paint similar to ballast color
• 1" bristle brush

The switch stand pads are made from scrap cork, turned upside down so they slide into the bevel. I trimmed mine to an eight scale feet width. I beveled the three sides first with a hobby knife and then a sanding pad. I glued them in place with wood glue, centering each of them with the tie rod lines that were already marked next to the cork.

After glueing the switch stand pads in place, I cut slots for switch machine actuating wire. While I do not plan on using switch machines on the side of the layout I started on today, I went ahead and prepped for them in case I ever change my mind down the road. (It is nearly impossible to drill out the holes after the fact without tearing up the turnouts.) The first step is to mark a rectangle on the cork approximately 1/4 by 1/2 inches, centered along the mark for the throw rod. The next step is to cut out the cork with a #17 chisel edge blade. Finally, after removing the cork, drill two 1/4" holes and use the drill to connect them into a slot.

At this point, it makes sense to paint under the turnout locations. By painting the cork a flat black or a close approximation of the ballast color under the point rails, one can avoid ballasting (or at least heavy ballasting) under the path of the moving point rails. Also, in this area, I had patched the cork with white spackle and the paint will hide any white showing through.

Prepping the Turnouts

                                                                                                                                                               

In addition to the tools needed for prepping the Peco Electrofrog turnouts, one can see the painted cork with turnout pads ready for the track in the photo to the right.

• rail nippers
• wire cutters
• wire strippers
• needle nosed pliers
• hobby knives
• jeweler's files
• #20 wire
• solder, rosin, soldering iron
• solder stand with alligator clips
• drill with 1/8" bit
• pin vise and twist drill bits
• multi-meter

The Peco Streamline Electrofrog turnouts that I am using need a few adaptations for independently powered frogs and DCC "friendliness." A clear discussion of these turnouts can be found on the DCCwiki. The steps I am taking for Willow Junction are below. Again, I am not using switch motors on this side of the layout, but I am powering the frogs with a Tam Valley "Frog Juicer." Steps 1-5 are preparation before laying track, and 6-10 are part of the track laying process. 

Peco Elecrofrog with first three modifications done

1. Snip the wires connecting center rails to frog. (The gap is already there in Peco Streamline Electrofrog; in other brands one needs to cut a gap in the rail.)  
2. Solder the point rail to the stock rail for the mainline and diverging rails at the gaps in the plastic tie material under the turnout.
3. Solder feeder rail to frog. Since I already have a "Frog Juicer" installed, I made sure the wire would be long enough to reach it.
4. Construct a wire jumper to bridge the hinge at the point rails. David Popp has instructions on MRVP Olympia Layout. While I understand the rationale for having this, I find that my first attempt is unsightly and detracts from an otherwise attractive turnout. 
5. Check continuity with a multi-meter. Ohms will show continuity. Frog should be isolated (no continuity with other rails). Stock and closure rails should have continuity, but just on one side. No continuity between mainline and diverging routes.
6. Measure and locate position before drilling 1/8" hole for feeder wire through the cork.
7. Trim head block ties if switch stand is located on opposite side.
8.  Trim ties for rail joiners as necessary.
9. Drill out ties for track nails from back side if desired.
10. Remember to use insulated rail joiners after the frog! It is a built in short if you don't do this.

I am curious what others think about the need for a prophylactic wire jumper to bridge the point rail hinge, my step 4. Please comment!

Backdrops Part 3: Background Landscape

Painting the background, other than sky, requires some research to match the appearance of the location that one is modeling. If it is not a reasonably close-by location, some internet tools can be very helpful. Three that I have found useful are Google Earth, Wikipedia, and on-line real estate photos. Because I was taking a trip to the Pacific Northwest to finish up some final aspects of our move to Pennsylvania, I was able to fit in some in-person research. Traveling parallel to the route of the 3rd Subdivision between Anacortes and Burlington and driving around Ferndale, gave me the opportunity to take some snapshot-quality photos as reference.

Mountains, trees, and field west of Ferndale

The first step in actually painting the backdrop was to pencil in some lines for background mountains, hills, and trees. Another step before actually painting was to mask off the bench work, cork, or any of the DCC components with newspaper and blue tape. One of the techniques I learned from one of my modular railroad friends in Seattle was to spray white haze between layers of hills to add depth to the scene. I wanted to protect the surroundings as I attempted that technique with a flat white rattle can.

This shot, to the left, shows three layers of hills with white spray paint between the more distant layers and behind the tree line. In this part of the painted background I kept the horizon low and the colors muted with the only real detail in the subtle conifer brushwork at the top of the ridges. These are three of the colors that I premixed with the intent to use them throughout the initial layout and any later extensions that I might add in the future. I used the sky blue and white latex paint as well as adding some craft paints colors (slate grey and medium foliage green) and raw umber Liquitex acrylic.

The shot to the right shows both the beginning of a signature scene, Mt. Baker, and the array of brushes that I used. In one of the coved corners I wanted to include Mt. Baker because it is definitely a recognizable feature in Whatcom County, at least on a rare blue sky day. Of all those brushes, the two that I used the most were a #8 bristle round and a #2 bristle flat. I used a larger bristle flat to create the treed texture at the top of some of the ridges and a softer flat and a fan brush for some closer tree work. But really, I could have gotten by with just the two.

In this shot, to the left, my attempts to layer details while keeping a low horizon line are shown. At this point, I have completed painting the background landscape for the backdrop of the initial "U" shaped layout. As I add foreground scenery and complete the final step, disguising the right angle between the backdrop and the benchwork, I may have to go back and make some adjustments or additions to the painted backdrop.