Ingleton: Update and Next Steps

In addition to ongoing planning for the 4th Subdivision and a few, first, small steps towards "finishing" the basement layout space, I have continued to work on the Ingleton track since my last post. 

After scrubbing the areas where the track had been soldered with denatured alcohol and a toothbrush as well as replacing missing ties, I prepped to paint the ties and rails with my airbrush. I explained this process in detail in an earlier post from my former layout. I did make two changes to my technique here on the Ingleton shelf: I thinned the Microlux paint with Vallejo thinner instead of 70% isopropyl alcohol and I used a paint stick to initially clean the rail surface instead of a Bright Boy.  

A few weeks later, I went back and handpainted the ties with a random mix of railroad tie brown and a medium grey craft paint. This process is much faster than one might think, as only the tops of the rail need to be painted. At this point, ballasting and track bumpers are the last two steps I need to complete to finish up the track. Having decided to use a real rock ballast rather than Woodland Scenics' crushed walnut shell product, I ordered  several packets  of "Empire Builder Basalt" from Arizona Rock and Mineral. When I go to work on my larger railroad, I will want to do a better job of identifying mainline and non-mainline track with different size cork, spacing of ties, and ballast colors. At that point I may decide to mix several colors of ballast to a custom mix based on the look of some prototype photographs. For the Ingleton shelf I plan to use the new ballast straight. 

As a part of double checking the track spacing, I unpacked some of my truss rod rolling stock to make sure that the numbers of cars fit the way I had planned on the sidings. While I was at it, I checked a few for weight, wheel gauge, and coupler height. Later when I had the airbrush out for painting the track, I gave two or three a dusting of the same thinned brown along the bottom, ends, and the trucks. Ultimately I will want to start with a minimum of eight cars that meet my rolling stock standards including weathering. 

In addition to fleshing out a collection of rolling stock and ballasting the track, several other next steps are in line:

• While the first phase of scenery may just be Heki Wild Grass Fiber spread over the painted plank, I do intend to use the shelf to develop skills. I may want to add some three dimensionality to the flat board and continue to build on my repertoire of techniques to hide the seam between the 3D terrain and the backdrop. Also, I may try another technique for modeling roads and finally actually use my static gun!

• Along with developing scenery, I also intend to create some structures for Ingleton. While operating Ingleton as a switching puzzle does not require structures, a more realistic approach to operations on the shelf layout would be facilitated by having some structures to suggest purpose. Also, one purpose of the Ingleton shelf is to develop skills. I have a propensity to start structures and then not finish them. Having this small shelf may provide some focus and experience. I intend to kitbash a background warehouse type structure starting from a Walthers grocery distributor kit providing a couple of sure spots along the back siding. A loading ramp, a conveyor, or some sort of piping are possibilities for additions to a plain team track approach to the other two sidings.  Another possibility would be the addition of a trackside railroad structure.

• As I work towards a more finished look to Ingleton, I want to incorporate some kind of lighting specific to the shelf, a valance to hide the lighting, and a fascia on the shelf. 

• The unpacking of materials and setting up my workspace has become a bit of a gumption trap, I need to resolve that issue. This will help with making the work more efficient and with the look or presentation of the larger train environment.

• Finally,  fine tuning the operations plan will need to work in conjunction with my work on rolling stock and structures. Also, I hope to devise some kind of paperwork appropriate for the developing operations plan.

Learning Points:

• Using an airbrush ends up having better results and being easier than other track painting techniques for initial painting.

• I should follow the advice of Dick Bradley and develop the habit of washing all plastic components before painting. It is a step that I have often skipped in the past. 

• A well organized work space is a critical first step. 

Ingleton: Track and Wiring

While working on the Ingleton "practice plank" over the last few weeks, I tried to work towards bulletproof track and electrical continuity. I set as one of my goals for this small switching layout to run flawlessly whether as a switch job or a puzzle. 

As a first step, I prepped the two Peco Electrofrog switches by following what I now think of as a seven- step process first explored in an earlier post.  I find the Peco turnouts operate reliably and their powered frogs, whether using frog juicers or the toggle switches built into turnout motors, eliminate hiccups with locomotives running through the turnouts.  

In the photo, one of the turnouts, placed on the workbench, is ready for prep work. I ordered thinner (.032) solder before starting to see if I can improve my soldering technique. 

Steps in prepping Peco Electrofrog turnouts:

1. Snip jumper wires
2. Solder jumpers from point to stock rails
3. Solder feeder wire extension to frog
4. Check continuity of earlier steps
5. Trim tie spikes for rail joiners
6. Drill out the four dimples for track nails
7. Don't forget to use insulated joiners to isolate the frogs!

For the next step, cutting and fitting the track, I started with the two turnouts. After pinning them in place, I cut a small piece of flex track to size and trimmed off extra rails to fit rail joiners in place. Then I also started fitting the other pieces of track in place. I am finding that soldering the feeders under the rails before final installation of the track becomes easier the more I do it. I described the process in an earlier post in the section "Sequence is Important for Under the Track Feeder Usage." As I am using Atlas code 83 flex track, double checking the relative positioning of the rail and gap in the plastic between the ties is important when the track has a curve. 

Once I had all the track fitted into place, I soldered the rail joiners and the one feeder that I had forgotten. I soldered that one feeder under the track after the track was in place. Because of supply chain issues, I wasn't able to find the clear or gray caulk that I had planned to try as a track adhesive. My alternate plan included spiking the turnouts using the four holes that I had drilled with the pin vice in each turnout. I also used Weldbond adhesive for the ends of the longer pieces of track. We will see how that holds up, but initially I like using Weldbond as a track adhesive. After drying overnight, the shelf was ready to turn over onto sawhorses for wiring. 

I found working with the plank upside down on sawhorses so much easier than working under the benchwork -- a real incentive to build a layout in sections that can be worked on up on sawhorses or the work table. Having seen no long term issues with 3M suitcase or "insulation displacement connectors" in my previous layout, I continued with them. I did try a new technique (to me) of twisting the red and black 14 gauge bus wires together. I have read that NCE recommends doing this, and I thought I would try it here. Again, with working with small sections of benchwork at a time, it is not difficult to do. I marked where the shelf brackets will be with a sharpie, and connected the feeders and Tam Valley Frog Juicer with room around the bracket locations. 

After setting the shelf back in place and connecting the DCC system, I successfully ran the 0-6-0 locomotive through all the turnouts both forwards and in reverse. The track and wiring are complete, and it is time for me to start on scenery, structures, and rolling stock. 

Learning Points

• Slight curves and track not tangent to the benchwork adds to illusion of apparent length and realism

• Working in small benchwork sections makes some tasks much easier

• Starting with the most complicated trackwork, soldering the feeders under the rails, and fitting the track before soldering the joiners and attaching the track to the roadbed becomes easier with practice. 

• Addition of new new tools and techniques (.032 solder, bronze tip cleaner stand, higher quality wire strippers, twisting the bus wires) should improve the quality of my wiring

Starting Over Part Four: Decisions Revisited

 While continuing to unpack and organize my modeling workshop as well as make more progress on the Ingleton shelf, I have also been revisiting my thoughts on the larger Version 2 of the 4th Subdivision. Last week I put a PowerPoint presentation together to share at my old division's Thursday Modeling Night Zoom meeting. While the "vibe was not right" for sharing my presentation at that particular meeting, I will use it as a basis for this post. 

First of all, I have decided that the basement will be the location of my model railroad for a number of reasons. The ceiling height is fine; I can walk under the steam pipes and support beam easily without ducking. The basement has easy access with wide stairs directly up to a landing with either a door to the outside or a short, three-step winder continuing to the first floor. Not only is the basement cool in the summer, but with the boiler and steam pipes to the radiators to the rest of the house, comfortably warm in the winter. Looking back at the reflections on my former model railroad in the attic of our house in Meadville, the temperature extremes were a major issue that the new location in our Tobyhanna basement should ameliorate. On the other hand, the basement is not finished and moisture issues will have to be dealt with. Based on our experiences in September, the dehumidifier (including a possible second one) will be running continuously during the summer months. The basement has an existing moisture containment system that includes a "french drain" or miniature drainage canal system around the inside perimeter and a sump pit as well as a sump pump in the opposite corner. Because this system must be accessed, at least part of any model railroad design will need to be an island design rather than an around the walls plan. 

In my first attempts at creating a design for Version 2 of the 4th Subdivision, I am, if not following, at least influenced by Lance Mindheim's recent book, How To Design A Model Railroad, as well as concepts from Iain Rice from several of his model railroad planning books. One idea that I am definitely following is Mindheim's so-called "plan of attack" consisting of starting with the benchwork footprint and then selecting and overlaying a route type (point to point, continuous run, return loop pure or sincere versus folded lap, etc.) Only then does one start creating (or adapting from the protype) a schematic before overlaying it on the route and finally adding secondary track and details.  This final step is what is often thought of as track planning. Two Iain Rice concepts that I incorporated in all of my initial drafts were the importance of backdrops and the use of curvy edges rather than straight or square-cornered ones. In looking at these first drafts other ideas from Iain Rice clearly appear. 

First Plan: Proof of Concept

After making some rough measurements of the basement, my first plan was to check to see if an island plan as I had described it in a discussion at an earlier Thursday Night Zoom meeting might work. This plan includes mostly four foot aisleways with a few pinch points down to three feet in width. It follows a potential out and back or point to point route with no duck unders, liftouts, or cut offs from following the path of the train. The "proof of concept" plan suggest that a partial island track plan would work. In this example, the plan includes approximately eighty-five feet of run length and one module, the Green Rock section with turntable, moved from Meadville.

Second Plan: Include Return Loops

Drawing up a second benchwork footprint, I included the possibility of return loops for continuous running as an option. The location of the return loops is suggested in the drawing above by the curved black lines. In this option the central peninsula is shorter while the end of the run extends along the right in the image. Instead of using the existing turntable module, the option of a possible turnback loop and/or some hidden staging is provided at this end of the run. By adding continuous running to break in locomotives, having trains running for open house situations, or visitor (or my own) enjoyment creates additional opportunities. However additional complexities also arise. Return loops require more complex wiring and additional components with the need for polarity reversing and automation. To maintain the wide aisleways, a smaller 22" radius is suggested dropping below my already low 24" minimum radius. Another complication, much like the next option to be discussed, is that it does not incorporate any of the sections moved from our previous home. 

Third Plan: Inspired by Iain Rice

In unpacking and storing my collection of model railroad magazines, I came across MR's 43 Track Plans From the Experts from Fall 2011. In it I noticed a prescient article, "A Seaside Layout That Grows," describing Iain Rice's "Gulfport, Yarde, & Industry." First of all, Rice presents an approach very similar to the TOMA or one module approach suggested by Joe Fugate et al in Model Railroad Hobbyist. The Gulfport, Yarde & Industry presents Rice's suggestion to build one or two sections at a time. By building sectionally, he suggests that the first part can be operated as a stand alone with the addition of some simple staging. Then, as interests, available time, or space change additional sections can be added, moved, or combined. Secondly, as presented, Rice's layout drawing provided a model for my third benchwork footprint plan. This plan includes additional concepts from Iain Rice such as the cameo or shadowboxed diorama look and not just building the benchwork in sections, but including benchwork design as part of initial planning. The need for this is seen in the concept of grade/elevation change in order to overlap the unsceniced connector with sceniced sections.

While I am very intrigued by the notion of starting with a section or sections with a harbor scene, I think the next plan for version 2 that I will explore (at least on paper) should include more, if not all, of the sections brought from our former home. On the other hand, I suspect that the next post here will be an update to progress on the Ingleton shelf.

Ingleton: A Small and Simple Shelf

 

As mentioned as a possibility in my last post, while still in design mode for the new 4th Subdivision, I have started a small "practice plank" as a first layout in the basement. In addition to engaging in active modeling, Ingleton will provide an opportunity for self analysis for the strategic planning needed for the design of the larger layout, and perhaps more importantly review and practice existing skill as well as learn new ones. This shelf is a bit less than a foot deep and six feet long, so it will definitely be small and simple. 

In mounting what Lance Mindheim calls "the board of education," I realized that a finished look with a museum or theatre approach is important to me. The use of a backdrop is also important as I clearly want to look at the layout as a 3D artwork. While Ingleton will not have coved corners, even with a "practice" layout, presentation and backdrop are critical to my enjoyment and approach to model railroading. 

With this simple shelf railroad, I wanted to be able to use it as both an Inglenook switching puzzle and at other times more prototypically with the inclusion of a background building/industry and team track. In either case I will be limited to moving rolling stock from one track to another. My plan has been to use some of the truss rod and other "too old for the 1950s" rolling stock that I have collected, here on the Ingleton shelf. Using the 0-6-0 switcher and the largest truss rod reefers I determined the length of the sidings on a quick sketch rather than drawing an accurate track plan. 

I started mocking up the Inglenook track plan on the plank after allowing room for a background structure and using the track lengths that I had calculated. My first version had a slight curve between the two turnouts creating a problematic "S" curve. After thinking about it overnight and looking through Lance Mindheim's book, How to Design a Model Railroad, I noticed his guideline of straight track between curves and turnouts of four to six inches. I then redid my full size mock- up, and by moving the location of the turnouts, I was able to use straight track between the two turnouts and leading into and out of the turnouts on the second mock-up. 

From the track taped in place, I marked centerlines with pencil dots, ends of turnouts, and head block locations. Then I connected the dots using a straightedge and a single piece of cork to pencil in smooth curves. I double checked distances and extended the head block and end of turnout lines, so that the marks could be seen after the cork was installed. 

My most recently accomplished step was to glue down the cork following the center lines of the track plan. As I didn't have any turnout pads on hand, I used a fresh blade in a utility knife and was able to fashion the turnout areas fairly smoothly. I described this process in a much earlier blog post. As mentioned in that post, even though I am not planning on using switch machines, I went ahead and drilled slots/holes for the turnout machine actuating rods in case I ever change my mind. Next steps will be prepping the two turnouts, wiring the frogs and feeders, and laying the track. 

Learning Points:

• Backdrops and presentation are important to me
• Mocking up in full size is helpful
• Operations style is important from the begining in planning
• Add minimum straight transitions between curves and turnouts

Starting Over Part Three: Rationale For a Small, Initial Layout

 

Unpacking and setting up the workbench has begun

Having started unpacking my model railroad materials and setting up my modeling work area in the basement, I am itching to build something before Version 2 of the 4th Subdivision is designed. In chatting with more experienced model railroaders and reading some of the design experts, one of the recommended first steps in planning a model railroad is to evaluate one's interests and visions by answering a number of questions. By initially building a small shelf railroad I will gain some more practice and experience which may help me answer some of those questions, build some additional skills, and get myself back into active modeling while I plan and prep for the larger model railroad. 

Likely spot in the basement for a "shelf" layout

Lance Mindheim suggests that "modelers in 'waiting mode' build a small, simple practice layout on a wood plank" in his article, "All You Need to Know, in Four Square Feet" in the August 2020 Model Railroader. He explores a similar approach to "mobilize folks to get something up on the wall" in his December 18, 2012 blog post. In the MR article he stresses skill building, calling the practice plank the "board of education." Having moved before my last railroad was completed, scenery and structure building are two skill areas that I need to experience more fully. Also, I may explore a different approach to operations by possibly incorporating an Inglenook Sidings puzzle. 

Starting Over Part Two: Location

One of the decisions that must be made in conjunction with, if not directly impacting, other decisions is the location of the model railroad. I have three options and started the process by analyzing the pros and cons of each. 

Our Garage

Pros:

• One half of the two car garage is available. 

Cons:

• Interior is not finished
• Electrical needs to be updated
• No heat or insulation
• Where will the woodshop go if the model railroad is located here?
• Access in winter or other inclement weather is problematic  

Current Thinking: Woodshop in the garage, not the model railroad.

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The Basement

Pros:

• Stairs into the middle of the basement
• Direct access from outside or from the inside
• Headroom is fine for me, even with steam pipes and ductwork
• Lots of room, including space for workbench and storage
• Cool in the summer, heat from boiler and steam pipes in winter

Cons:

• It is a basement, not really finished
• Not totally dry, "french drain" around walls, with sump
• So, edge will be wet/damp
• Musty; dehumidifier needs to run continuously in summer
• Needs painting/finishing
• Only one exit
• Shares with utilities (well, hot water heater, boiler)
• Will share with laundry in near future

Current Thinking: The basement is the most likely choice, but island rather than around the walls approach to layout design will be necessary.

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One of the Attic Rooms

Pros:

• Finished space
• Electrical outlets and lights
• Easy access with wide stairs
• Radiators in two attic rooms, so heat in winter
• Shelves already there for model railroad magazines

Cons:

• Wallpaper torn, stained, and wrinkled;  needs work
• Hot in summer
• Smaller rooms and cut up spaces
• Visitors would have to troop through entire house

Current Thinking: I will be storing my collection of model railroad magazines in the attic. If I end up with just a compact layout or a gallery of layouts, the attic may still be in the running as a possible location. 

Existing Shelves for Magazines

Starting Over Part One: Decisions, Decisions

As we are starting to settle in to our 1930 colonial revival home in the Poconos, I am starting over with Version 2 of the 4th Subdivision of the Cascade Division of the Great Northern. While I have made a few decisions, I still have quite a few more to make to move forward with planning/designing the new railroad.  

Tobyhanna Station

While a lot of railroad history exists near here, suggesting a switch to a different theme, I am definitely staying with my Great Northern and Pacific Northwest theme. On a basic level, I have invested a fair amount in research and equipment. Both time and money are scarce enough resources that I am not prepared to totally start over. On a more esoteric level, I have emotional and aesthetic investments and interests in that modeling theme. My planning will continue to be based on a freelanced 4th Subdivision.

Moving forward, I will need to contemplate a series of decisions in conjunction with initial planning. While I don't want to be bogged down with layout room preparations or paralysis by analysis, I don't want to start slapping things together willy-nilly either. 

Decisions to Make: 

• Strategic Planning: What are my interests and vision for the railroad?
• Location of the layout: Where will the railroad be built (attic, basement, garage)? What about the work area and storage?
• Size of the layout: This will be based somewhat on the answers to the questions above. If I decide that I want a small initial section that can be completed in a reasonable amount of time, will it be a TOMA section or a separate one, not intended to later be part of the larger railroad?

As I attempt to make these decisions, I expect that this blog will be the workplace for working out the questions and answers or pros and cons. 

Lessons Learned

With packing and planning for our move, my thoughts have turned to lessons learned from the 4th Subdivision built in the attic of our current house. I think that I have learned a lot and improved my skillset as a model railroader through working on this model railroad and through my friendships with others in Division 12. With the upcoming move, I will have a chance to start over reflecting on what worked well, what I would do differently, and how I see myself now as a model railroader. 

One initial and central thought is to be more aware of the space in which the layout will be built from the beginning. Many times I found myself putting off working on the railroad because the attic was too hot or cold. As I started joining groups of other railroaders and forming friendships, I learned that I might be less of a lone wolf than I initially thought. Having visitors or holding open houses and small operations sessions are definite possibilities (as we hopefully move out of our pandemic situation), so I need to consider the comfort of the space in which I will be working as well as allowing space for others to join me right from the beginning. As my wife and I search for our new home, space for the railroad is one of our "must haves." 

Whether it is already finished or finishing the space will be a first task, the railroad space will need to be comfortable. Heating and  cooling the train room will be a major consideration. Headspace, moisture, lighting, access to electrical outlets, dust prevention, aesthetic considerations, and having sufficient space available will all factor in. While I don't want focusing exclusively on improving the train environment  to prevent me from starting the railroad in a reasonable amount of time, I don't want to repeat the same mistakes I have made in the past. Theoretically I learned from the attic layout that not having suitable HVAC or more than one outlet were hard to rectify after the railroad construction was well under way. 

Coved corner and 24" radius with easement

When we are far enough along with the move that I can turn to planning the railroad in a new space, I will be starting with a foundation of what worked well operationally and aesthetically with my current attic railroad. The setting and type of operations will be very similar. The aisle way of 44" worked out well. Even with bill boxes, control panels, and throttle holders attached to the fascia, a clear 36" was maintained in the main "U" shaped section. (The too-tight section at the top of the stairs to the attic broke that minimum even after a rebuild.) Having coved corners in the bottom of the "U" made for backdrops that did create the illusion of distance and disguise the corner. The shadowbox look with fascia and valance that I was aiming for helped mitigate the sloped ceiling of the attic; keeping a museum/theatre approach is my intention. My trackwork and electrical minimum standards worked pretty well. Powering the frogs and soldering the feeders under the rails led to attractive and trouble free running. The minimum standards of 24" radius curves and #6 switches for the mainline and #5 for spurs will be maintained, although broader curves do look more authentic. 

Existing scenic divide situation to be avoided

When I added a scenic divide, first to staging and then into Green Rock as seen in the photo, several situations occurred that I do not want to accept in any new plans. First, aesthetically, coved corners are a must. The seam in the sky at a ninety degree corner should not be allowed in future plans. Secondly, no empty space exists between two operationally active scenes with this situation. To switch cars in Green Rock, they have to break through the wall and operate in Willow Junction, which is supposedly miles away. In my current thinking, I need a new standard of at least a train length of distance between active switching locations, as well as between a scenic divide and active switching. Another change from my current standards will be to at least consider enlarging the train length from five cars to seven or eight. 

Continuing to be cognizant of what was successful and what didn't work as well in my initial attic layout when I begin planning for "Version 2" of the 4th Subdivision of the Cascade Division of the Great Northern will hopefully lead to it being more enjoyable to work on and operate either by myself or with a small group of fellow enthusiasts. 

Not Really Moving Forward: Just Moving

When I started this blog, my wife and I had just moved from Seattle back to Meadville, my hometown and the town where we met attending Allegheny College in the 1970s. Part of the rationale for moving from the west coast was to be closer to my wife's family. One consequence of living through the COVID-19 pandemic this past year has been realizing that we are still too far from her family. With minimal stops, it is a six-hour drive each way across Pennsylvania to visit them in Western New Jersey. While flying from the west coast was more complicated, it still remains a multiple day excursion to visit with them. 

In recently chatting on email with one of my model railroading friends, I noted that I seem stuck between first planning phases of moving to be closer and making progress on the current 4th Subdivision layout in our house here in Meadville, without much progress on either.

Without further analysis of my struggles with inertia, let me discuss what I have been learning about moving with a model railroad. Two resources have been very helpful in focusing on the railroad in planning the move. Brooks Stover's article in the August 2020 NMRA Magazine, "Downsizing Does Not Mean Settling," gives advice on packing for a move, as does one written by William Lyders, "Moving: Dismantling A Layout Then Getting It Up and Operating Quickly" found in the NMRA Members Only Section: https://www.nmra.org/sites/default/files/sr202004-movingalayout.pdf.

For packing model railroad materials, building an inventory is an associated task important for the move as well as future insurance or estate purposes. Stover suggests that various small containers including zip lock bags help organize the small bits. He also suggests labeling the boxes on top and on front. 

Here are the first couple of boxes. I included a box number, brief description, and whether the contents are already on the "box list" and "inventory" on the labels. I also left room on each label for more information as we get closer to the move. Once we know where we are moving, I will include information about a more specific location where the box should end up at our new house. The box list is a general list of all boxes as we pack, including the rest of the household items. The inventory is specific to the model railroad. 

I started building the inventory list from an existing template in Excel  for household insurance inventory documentation. I included tabs for item or description, make or model, serial or model number, and estimated current replacement value. Box #1 includes unbuilt structure kits, and I was amazed to see the replacement value of just that one box creep up to over $450.00. While I do not have model railroad insurance at this point, building the inventory as I pack will be the first step of that process. 

Just last week, during the weekly modeling Zoom meeting associated with my NMRA division, I put together the box/trays from A-Line that I bought years ago. My thinking is that finished rolling stock will go in that carrier. I will be able to remove the rolling stock from the layout and safely store them. Scenery materials will be next, as I remove trees from the railroad, I can also pack all the other scenery supplies I have collected over the years.  I also will be packing the rest of my unbuilt rolling stock and structure kits before I start dismantling the railroad or packing my work area. I am sure that my wife would love to see me dispose of all my railroad magazines rather than lug them to a new house, but I am not sure I am ready for that step. I still prefer re-reading the dead tree versions to the electronic versions available in archives. We will see how this situation resolves itself!

Lyders' article, referenced above, talks about tearing down the model railroad one month before closing. I will be scheduling it sooner than that. Otherwise, his advice seems very applicable.  He suggests cutting the existing railroad into movable sections. As my original U-shaped benchwork consists of separate benchwork sections bolted together, that should be relatively easy with only trackwork and some first layers of scenery to be actually cut. Otherwise it is more of an unbolting and disconnecting the wiring process. Lyders notes that scenery takes a beating in a move, but I had not gotten far with scenery beyond some first layers. He also suggests cutting track back from the edge, to help prevent the track snagging and tearing larger sections loose. While I plan on reusing the segments, I am not sure they will go back

together exactly as they were, so cutting the track back from the edges seems prudent. Again following his precedent, where I have electronic components mounted together on plywood, I will keep the keep the circuit boards and other electronics mounted on the plywood panels and pack the panels. 

While I have made the decision that further progress on the 4th Subdivision does not make sense with the impending move, I may still finish a few projects that are currently in midstream before dismantling my work bench. My doodlebug and a steam locomotive are both partially apart with the intention of installing improved sound decoders. I may want to finish those installations while I have the support of fellow Division 12 members with more decoder knowledge to provide moral support. Disentangling myself from all the roles I have taken on with Division 12 is a whole other issue, not really relevant to this blog. 

At this point, my intension is to be sure to have appropriate model railroad space at our new home, wherever that may end up being. I also intend to keep a similar scheme for the new railroad, so this blog will continue to be where I document and share the planning, construction, and operation of a small (or medium sized) model railroad. 

Moving Forward With Green Rock -- Another Update

Again, while I haven't been posting frequently, work has been steadily moving on at Green Rock and the end of the branch turntable. The Division 12 Thursday modeling night Zoom sessions have really helped me with progress. (Note to self: scheduled modeling time is a good thing.) At the end of December I wrote up a "to-do" list for Green Rock, and I have been able to check off a majority of those items. 

After my last post here and before writing the to-do list, I did, in fact, finish laying the track. One obstacle was that the thickness of the ties and the rim of the turntable pit were not the same. I used a crescent shaped bit of styrene left over from another project to form a ramp up to the lip of the pit. If I haven't mentioned it before, by this time the pit and other turntable parts have been sprayed with rattle can primer and first layers of acrylic paint. Also, as seen in the photo, I have applied some ground goop around the pit and roadbed. At any rate, after installing the track, soldering the joints, and double checking that all the track had adequate electrical connections, I went ahead with the next step -- painting the track.

With such a small area, I tried to save the time masking and cleaning the airbrush by hand painting the track. It turns out that approach is not a time saver! First I tried using the Testors "Enamel Paint Marker" seen in the photo. It didn't cover well, even with two coats. I had cleaned off the flux from soldering; perhaps cleaning all the rails with isopropyl alcohol would have helped, but I doubt it. So I tried brush painting the rails with rail brown acrylics after the enamel had dried. Even with multiple coats, I still had what I called "sparkle." Tiny dots of unpainted rail next to the spike heads reflected light and "sparkled." I applied yet another brushed on coat to the visible rail sides, ameliorating but not solving the issue. I also brush painted the ties with a wet on wet mix of rail brown and light gray before calling it good enough.  

Continuing with the good enough approach, I added some 3D scenery around the "light at the end of the tunnel" entrance to the Green Rock module, using the crumpled newspaper, masking tape, and plaster gauze technique I have described elsewhere. After that all dried I added Sculptamold, and after that dried I painted it with my standard brown earth latex paint. I also cut a piece of 1/8" hardboard to fit as backdrop behind Green Rock. I gave it a first layer of background paint blending the blue into white towards the bottom. At a later point I might decide that it is not good enough and add additional details. I did paint in some initial tree shapes around the hole through the scene divider. At that point it was time to focus on the turntable itself.  

The Walthers turntable kit had some problems, but by troubleshooting them and accepting hand operation, I was able to barely hit my good enough standard. The DCC and track power did end up working just fine. I had a PSRev auto reverser on hand that I have owned for maybe fifteen years. I cut and painted a piece of scrap plywood to mount across the legs of the Green Rock module. While my soldering skills are not great, I was able to attach short 14 gauge wire to the appropriate holes in the PSRev board. I then attached the circuit board with #6 screws using short lengths of plastic tubing as set-offs. I also attached some Euro- style terminal strips to the plywood for the incoming DCC bus and the outgoing wires to the phono plug I intended to use for connection to the turntable bridge. Luckily, this part of the turntable build has been working fine!

Otherwise, the turntable has been a bit of a disappointment. First of all, after buying it, I read some reviews. ( I know, that is not the proper order.) While some of the built-up Walthers turntables work well, the kits had terrible reviews, particularly in terms of operation. I guess one does get what they pay for.  I am not going to document the build of this model, but I will admit that with some careful painting, it looks pretty good. It could use some more weathering. Mechanically though, it has been a real struggle. Between the reviews and my test fitting, I early on decided to go with the manual approach rather than trying to use the motor. The bridge originally would not spin at all in the pit, despite my seemingly accurate construction carefully following the directions. I ended up using my orbital sander to sand down the ends of the bridge. It spun, but not smoothly as it still hung up in a few places. Then, in first actual trials with rolling stock, one end of the bridge would tip side-to-side causing the locomotive to derail. I tried attaching a small carved wooden block as an extra support next to the wheel on that side. After experimenting with using a dab of Labelle grease, it is approaching good enough status, but I fear I will need to keep experimenting with kludgy fixes.