Associated Grocers: Part 2

 

Continuing on with this structure build, I scratch-built a loading dock, one of the next steps mentioned in my last post, intended as a feature of the Associated Grocers warehouse. 

As I planned on using scale lumber that I had on hand, a first task that I needed to tackle was unpacking and organizing my strip wood. Having asked my wife's family to save their paper towel tubes to add to the ones we collected, I inserted them into a box on a workshop shelf along with a sketch labeling their contents. I also updated my reference table of scale to actual measurements. Knowing what I had on hand and the measurements of the warehouse and track location, I went ahead and drew up plans for the dock seen at the beginning of this post. 

While drawing  the scale plans, I also created a cut list of how many pieces of each size of "lumber" I would need. I installed a new blade in my Chopper and rotated the self-healing mat. Then I went ahead and started cutting all the pieces, including a few extra of each size. The Chopper is a real time saver, and it allows for consistent and accurate cuts. While saving time, I always remind myself to not rush, as the user must pay attention to that sharp razor blade while pulling the finished pieces out. 

After cutting all the lengths of stripwood, the next step was to stain them all. The stain I had on hand was Hunterline's "Raw Umber" weathering mix. While applying it full strength, it is a warm dark colored stain. Jumping ahead of myself here, after assembling the dock, I was not happy with the final color. At the time I let the pieces dry overnight, and went ahead with the assembly of the loading dock. 

After the the strip wood had dried overnight, I started  assembly of the dock. While I found that my shaky hands were a bit of a hindrance, I still got into a zone with glueing the loading dock together and never stopped for "in progress" photos. I first taped down my scale drawing on my workbench's plate glass and then taped a sheet of wax paper over the drawing. I used wood glue applied with a toothpick for assembly. I gathered the tools I planned to use: two squares, an older Stanley square with a heavy metal base and a small Zona square, and a pair of tweezers. I glued up the 8" X 16" frame right over the drawing. I then spread enough of the glue for around four or five of the deck boards. Using the base of the Stanley as a backstop or partial jig and the Zona to square up the just applied deck boards, applying the individual boards went smoothly and quickly. After the deck and frame had a chance to set up, I turned it over to glue in the posts. As I mentioned earlier, after the loading dock was completed, I was not satisfied with the dock color. I sanded the surface of the deck to lighten it somewhat and applied a light wash of a different color. I am thinking it it is an acceptable solution, but not ideal.

As seen in the photo above, The kitbashed Associated Grocers warehouse is close to completion. To get to this state I completed several steps in addition to building the loading dock. I glued in the windows and doors, attached the clear styrene window glazing, taped masking tape behind some of the windows to represent window shades, and fit black construction paper behind the windows. I cut and fit a styrene roof for the main structure adding simulated tar paper and several vents. I painted and glued on the roof over the loading dock from the Walthers kit. Also, I used the concrete steps from the kit, but the paint I used appears too light in the photo. An easy solution will be to apply the same wash that I applied to the foundation. To get this photo I had to add some side lighting, as the roof over the loading dock creates a shadow hiding the loading dock and doors which should conceptually be the focus of the building.

The next steps all revolve around highlighting rather than hiding the loading dock area. First of all, I need to continue down the rabbit hole of adding lighting. I ordered several components of the "Just Plug" lighting system, but once I had them, I found a major problem. Yesterday, I traveled to a brick and mortar store not too far from our home (Trains and Lanes in Easton) to pick up some additional components. The loading dock needs some details in addition to lighting. As this structure is intended to provide some sure spots to add operational interest, I also need to add some signage numbering the doors.

Learning Points:

• Experiment with stains ahead of time and develop a "go-to" mix.

• Remember the purpose of the building in making design and construction decisions.

• This project is not reflective of actual time spent in structure building; unpacking, organizing, and waiting for materials all ate up time and energy. 

  

Associated Grocers: Part 1

 I am kitbashing a background building to provide several sure spots for switching on the Ingleton shelf. I placed the walls of the partially completed structure in place for this in-process shot of the Associated Grocers warehouse. 

I started with parts from Walthers Cornerstone kit 933-3760 and taking measurements of the space between the back rail and the backdrop. The kit comes with two long walls with multiple loading doors. I chose the one with four garage type doors. I experimented with several other bits of walls from the kit to come up with my final combination. Truth be told, I asked my wife to choose the option she liked best. I cut several wall sections to fit with a razor saw and tried my hand at welding them together with Plastruct Plastic Weld solvent cement with support strips behind the joint. To get to what I hope to be the correct height of the doors I added a strip of .080 X .080 styrene along the bottom due to not using the Walthers base. While fairly satisfied with the results, the right angle corners are not perfect. I plan to order some City Classics corner braces before tackling my next plastic kitbash. 

Here, the walls are completed and washed with isopropyl alcohol. The doors and windows were trimmed from the sprues, edges sanded, and washed down with alcohol before I mounted them to a paint stick with painters tape. As I don't have my paint booth set up yet, I took them out to the garage to spray with rattle can primers. I used Rust-Oleum 2X Ultra Cover Primer in "Medium Grey" for the walls and loading dock roof components and 2X Camouflage "Deep  Forest Green" for the doors and windows. 

After the primer dried overnight, I went ahead and masked the areas of the walls that were concrete. I watched several Jason Jensen videos before tackling this project, with one called Working with Plastic Brick suggesting sponge painting the brick with three or four colors. I ended up just using three of the four colors shown in the photo: Dark Chocolate, Honey Brown, and Red Barn. Following his suggestion I used a sponge, rotating it so no pattern would show up and just allowing the colors to mix on the sponge. After the craft paints dried, I applied a wash of Vallejo Model Wash "Grey" over the entire wall.

After the wash and brick colors had thoroughly dried, I removed the masking tape and proceeded to try to paint the concrete foundation, window sills, and the roof trim seen to the left in the photo with just the primer applied. With this step, I made a mistake, but managed to push ahead and rectify it. Along with several kinds of solvent cement, I had ordered concrete colored model paint from Yankee Dabbler. I ordered True Color 801 flat brushable acrylic paint. It is an acrylic paint, but a solvent based acrylic paint. "Thins with acetone," I said to myself, "that's weird." But of course, I went ahead and started brushing it on. Well, big mistake! While the concrete sills worked okay with just one brushstroke, the foundation and roof trim that needed several brushstrokes soon turned into a mess. The acetone based solvent was so "hot" that it rewet the primer and it all started to turn into a sticky mess. After letting it dry, I repainted the foundation with a warm grey color that I made by mixing several craft paints. After that dried I brushed on a thin application of Vallejo Dark Grey Model Wash over the foundation.  

The next steps will be scratch-building a wooden loading dock, attaching the roofs, and installing the doors and window. 

Learning Points:

• I should order some City Classics corner braces or try another approach to corner bracing and gluing.

• I should also thoroughly investigate new products or at least try them out on scrap material before using them. 

New Year & New Version of the 4th Subdivision Rationale

New version of the sketch map of the 4th Subdivision

Many of the model railroad design pundits suggest the importance of placing the railroad on a map and creating its backstory or as Iain Rice calls it, the "rationale." Today's New Year's post includes a first draft of both.

 

Ingleton: Update and Next Steps

In addition to ongoing planning for the 4th Subdivision and a few, first, small steps towards "finishing" the basement layout space, I have continued to work on the Ingleton track since my last post. 

After scrubbing the areas where the track had been soldered with denatured alcohol and a toothbrush as well as replacing missing ties, I prepped to paint the ties and rails with my airbrush. I explained this process in detail in an earlier post from my former layout. I did make two changes to my technique here on the Ingleton shelf: I thinned the Microlux paint with Vallejo thinner instead of 70% isopropyl alcohol and I used a paint stick to initially clean the rail surface instead of a Bright Boy.  

A few weeks later, I went back and handpainted the ties with a random mix of railroad tie brown and a medium grey craft paint. This process is much faster than one might think, as only the tops of the rail need to be painted. At this point, ballasting and track bumpers are the last two steps I need to complete to finish up the track. Having decided to use a real rock ballast rather than Woodland Scenics' crushed walnut shell product, I ordered  several packets  of "Empire Builder Basalt" from Arizona Rock and Mineral. When I go to work on my larger railroad, I will want to do a better job of identifying mainline and non-mainline track with different size cork, spacing of ties, and ballast colors. At that point I may decide to mix several colors of ballast to a custom mix based on the look of some prototype photographs. For the Ingleton shelf I plan to use the new ballast straight. 

As a part of double checking the track spacing, I unpacked some of my truss rod rolling stock to make sure that the numbers of cars fit the way I had planned on the sidings. While I was at it, I checked a few for weight, wheel gauge, and coupler height. Later when I had the airbrush out for painting the track, I gave two or three a dusting of the same thinned brown along the bottom, ends, and the trucks. Ultimately I will want to start with a minimum of eight cars that meet my rolling stock standards including weathering. 

In addition to fleshing out a collection of rolling stock and ballasting the track, several other next steps are in line:

• While the first phase of scenery may just be Heki Wild Grass Fiber spread over the painted plank, I do intend to use the shelf to develop skills. I may want to add some three dimensionality to the flat board and continue to build on my repertoire of techniques to hide the seam between the 3D terrain and the backdrop. Also, I may try another technique for modeling roads and finally actually use my static gun!

• Along with developing scenery, I also intend to create some structures for Ingleton. While operating Ingleton as a switching puzzle does not require structures, a more realistic approach to operations on the shelf layout would be facilitated by having some structures to suggest purpose. Also, one purpose of the Ingleton shelf is to develop skills. I have a propensity to start structures and then not finish them. Having this small shelf may provide some focus and experience. I intend to kitbash a background warehouse type structure starting from a Walthers grocery distributor kit providing a couple of sure spots along the back siding. A loading ramp, a conveyor, or some sort of piping are possibilities for additions to a plain team track approach to the other two sidings.  Another possibility would be the addition of a trackside railroad structure.

• As I work towards a more finished look to Ingleton, I want to incorporate some kind of lighting specific to the shelf, a valance to hide the lighting, and a fascia on the shelf. 

• The unpacking of materials and setting up my workspace has become a bit of a gumption trap, I need to resolve that issue. This will help with making the work more efficient and with the look or presentation of the larger train environment.

• Finally,  fine tuning the operations plan will need to work in conjunction with my work on rolling stock and structures. Also, I hope to devise some kind of paperwork appropriate for the developing operations plan.

Learning Points:

• Using an airbrush ends up having better results and being easier than other track painting techniques for initial painting.

• I should follow the advice of Dick Bradley and develop the habit of washing all plastic components before painting. It is a step that I have often skipped in the past. 

• A well organized work space is a critical first step. 

Ingleton: Track and Wiring

While working on the Ingleton "practice plank" over the last few weeks, I tried to work towards bulletproof track and electrical continuity. I set as one of my goals for this small switching layout to run flawlessly whether as a switch job or a puzzle. 

As a first step, I prepped the two Peco Electrofrog switches by following what I now think of as a seven- step process first explored in an earlier post.  I find the Peco turnouts operate reliably and their powered frogs, whether using frog juicers or the toggle switches built into turnout motors, eliminate hiccups with locomotives running through the turnouts.  

In the photo, one of the turnouts, placed on the workbench, is ready for prep work. I ordered thinner (.032) solder before starting to see if I can improve my soldering technique. 

Steps in prepping Peco Electrofrog turnouts:

1. Snip jumper wires
2. Solder jumpers from point to stock rails
3. Solder feeder wire extension to frog
4. Check continuity of earlier steps
5. Trim tie spikes for rail joiners
6. Drill out the four dimples for track nails
7. Don't forget to use insulated joiners to isolate the frogs!

For the next step, cutting and fitting the track, I started with the two turnouts. After pinning them in place, I cut a small piece of flex track to size and trimmed off extra rails to fit rail joiners in place. Then I also started fitting the other pieces of track in place. I am finding that soldering the feeders under the rails before final installation of the track becomes easier the more I do it. I described the process in an earlier post in the section "Sequence is Important for Under the Track Feeder Usage." As I am using Atlas code 83 flex track, double checking the relative positioning of the rail and gap in the plastic between the ties is important when the track has a curve. 

Once I had all the track fitted into place, I soldered the rail joiners and the one feeder that I had forgotten. I soldered that one feeder under the track after the track was in place. Because of supply chain issues, I wasn't able to find the clear or gray caulk that I had planned to try as a track adhesive. My alternate plan included spiking the turnouts using the four holes that I had drilled with the pin vice in each turnout. I also used Weldbond adhesive for the ends of the longer pieces of track. We will see how that holds up, but initially I like using Weldbond as a track adhesive. After drying overnight, the shelf was ready to turn over onto sawhorses for wiring. 

I found working with the plank upside down on sawhorses so much easier than working under the benchwork -- a real incentive to build a layout in sections that can be worked on up on sawhorses or the work table. Having seen no long term issues with 3M suitcase or "insulation displacement connectors" in my previous layout, I continued with them. I did try a new technique (to me) of twisting the red and black 14 gauge bus wires together. I have read that NCE recommends doing this, and I thought I would try it here. Again, with working with small sections of benchwork at a time, it is not difficult to do. I marked where the shelf brackets will be with a sharpie, and connected the feeders and Tam Valley Frog Juicer with room around the bracket locations. 

After setting the shelf back in place and connecting the DCC system, I successfully ran the 0-6-0 locomotive through all the turnouts both forwards and in reverse. The track and wiring are complete, and it is time for me to start on scenery, structures, and rolling stock. 

Learning Points

• Slight curves and track not tangent to the benchwork adds to illusion of apparent length and realism

• Working in small benchwork sections makes some tasks much easier

• Starting with the most complicated trackwork, soldering the feeders under the rails, and fitting the track before soldering the joiners and attaching the track to the roadbed becomes easier with practice. 

• Addition of new new tools and techniques (.032 solder, bronze tip cleaner stand, higher quality wire strippers, twisting the bus wires) should improve the quality of my wiring

Starting Over Part Four: Decisions Revisited

 While continuing to unpack and organize my modeling workshop as well as make more progress on the Ingleton shelf, I have also been revisiting my thoughts on the larger Version 2 of the 4th Subdivision. Last week I put a PowerPoint presentation together to share at my old division's Thursday Modeling Night Zoom meeting. While the "vibe was not right" for sharing my presentation at that particular meeting, I will use it as a basis for this post. 

First of all, I have decided that the basement will be the location of my model railroad for a number of reasons. The ceiling height is fine; I can walk under the steam pipes and support beam easily without ducking. The basement has easy access with wide stairs directly up to a landing with either a door to the outside or a short, three-step winder continuing to the first floor. Not only is the basement cool in the summer, but with the boiler and steam pipes to the radiators to the rest of the house, comfortably warm in the winter. Looking back at the reflections on my former model railroad in the attic of our house in Meadville, the temperature extremes were a major issue that the new location in our Tobyhanna basement should ameliorate. On the other hand, the basement is not finished and moisture issues will have to be dealt with. Based on our experiences in September, the dehumidifier (including a possible second one) will be running continuously during the summer months. The basement has an existing moisture containment system that includes a "french drain" or miniature drainage canal system around the inside perimeter and a sump pit as well as a sump pump in the opposite corner. Because this system must be accessed, at least part of any model railroad design will need to be an island design rather than an around the walls plan. 

In my first attempts at creating a design for Version 2 of the 4th Subdivision, I am, if not following, at least influenced by Lance Mindheim's recent book, How To Design A Model Railroad, as well as concepts from Iain Rice from several of his model railroad planning books. One idea that I am definitely following is Mindheim's so-called "plan of attack" consisting of starting with the benchwork footprint and then selecting and overlaying a route type (point to point, continuous run, return loop pure or sincere versus folded lap, etc.) Only then does one start creating (or adapting from the protype) a schematic before overlaying it on the route and finally adding secondary track and details.  This final step is what is often thought of as track planning. Two Iain Rice concepts that I incorporated in all of my initial drafts were the importance of backdrops and the use of curvy edges rather than straight or square-cornered ones. In looking at these first drafts other ideas from Iain Rice clearly appear. 

First Plan: Proof of Concept

After making some rough measurements of the basement, my first plan was to check to see if an island plan as I had described it in a discussion at an earlier Thursday Night Zoom meeting might work. This plan includes mostly four foot aisleways with a few pinch points down to three feet in width. It follows a potential out and back or point to point route with no duck unders, liftouts, or cut offs from following the path of the train. The "proof of concept" plan suggest that a partial island track plan would work. In this example, the plan includes approximately eighty-five feet of run length and one module, the Green Rock section with turntable, moved from Meadville.

Second Plan: Include Return Loops

Drawing up a second benchwork footprint, I included the possibility of return loops for continuous running as an option. The location of the return loops is suggested in the drawing above by the curved black lines. In this option the central peninsula is shorter while the end of the run extends along the right in the image. Instead of using the existing turntable module, the option of a possible turnback loop and/or some hidden staging is provided at this end of the run. By adding continuous running to break in locomotives, having trains running for open house situations, or visitor (or my own) enjoyment creates additional opportunities. However additional complexities also arise. Return loops require more complex wiring and additional components with the need for polarity reversing and automation. To maintain the wide aisleways, a smaller 22" radius is suggested dropping below my already low 24" minimum radius. Another complication, much like the next option to be discussed, is that it does not incorporate any of the sections moved from our previous home. 

Third Plan: Inspired by Iain Rice

In unpacking and storing my collection of model railroad magazines, I came across MR's 43 Track Plans From the Experts from Fall 2011. In it I noticed a prescient article, "A Seaside Layout That Grows," describing Iain Rice's "Gulfport, Yarde, & Industry." First of all, Rice presents an approach very similar to the TOMA or one module approach suggested by Joe Fugate et al in Model Railroad Hobbyist. The Gulfport, Yarde & Industry presents Rice's suggestion to build one or two sections at a time. By building sectionally, he suggests that the first part can be operated as a stand alone with the addition of some simple staging. Then, as interests, available time, or space change additional sections can be added, moved, or combined. Secondly, as presented, Rice's layout drawing provided a model for my third benchwork footprint plan. This plan includes additional concepts from Iain Rice such as the cameo or shadowboxed diorama look and not just building the benchwork in sections, but including benchwork design as part of initial planning. The need for this is seen in the concept of grade/elevation change in order to overlap the unsceniced connector with sceniced sections.

While I am very intrigued by the notion of starting with a section or sections with a harbor scene, I think the next plan for version 2 that I will explore (at least on paper) should include more, if not all, of the sections brought from our former home. On the other hand, I suspect that the next post here will be an update to progress on the Ingleton shelf.

Ingleton: A Small and Simple Shelf

 

As mentioned as a possibility in my last post, while still in design mode for the new 4th Subdivision, I have started a small "practice plank" as a first layout in the basement. In addition to engaging in active modeling, Ingleton will provide an opportunity for self analysis for the strategic planning needed for the design of the larger layout, and perhaps more importantly review and practice existing skill as well as learn new ones. This shelf is a bit less than a foot deep and six feet long, so it will definitely be small and simple. 

In mounting what Lance Mindheim calls "the board of education," I realized that a finished look with a museum or theatre approach is important to me. The use of a backdrop is also important as I clearly want to look at the layout as a 3D artwork. While Ingleton will not have coved corners, even with a "practice" layout, presentation and backdrop are critical to my enjoyment and approach to model railroading. 

With this simple shelf railroad, I wanted to be able to use it as both an Inglenook switching puzzle and at other times more prototypically with the inclusion of a background building/industry and team track. In either case I will be limited to moving rolling stock from one track to another. My plan has been to use some of the truss rod and other "too old for the 1950s" rolling stock that I have collected, here on the Ingleton shelf. Using the 0-6-0 switcher and the largest truss rod reefers I determined the length of the sidings on a quick sketch rather than drawing an accurate track plan. 

I started mocking up the Inglenook track plan on the plank after allowing room for a background structure and using the track lengths that I had calculated. My first version had a slight curve between the two turnouts creating a problematic "S" curve. After thinking about it overnight and looking through Lance Mindheim's book, How to Design a Model Railroad, I noticed his guideline of straight track between curves and turnouts of four to six inches. I then redid my full size mock- up, and by moving the location of the turnouts, I was able to use straight track between the two turnouts and leading into and out of the turnouts on the second mock-up. 

From the track taped in place, I marked centerlines with pencil dots, ends of turnouts, and head block locations. Then I connected the dots using a straightedge and a single piece of cork to pencil in smooth curves. I double checked distances and extended the head block and end of turnout lines, so that the marks could be seen after the cork was installed. 

My most recently accomplished step was to glue down the cork following the center lines of the track plan. As I didn't have any turnout pads on hand, I used a fresh blade in a utility knife and was able to fashion the turnout areas fairly smoothly. I described this process in a much earlier blog post. As mentioned in that post, even though I am not planning on using switch machines, I went ahead and drilled slots/holes for the turnout machine actuating rods in case I ever change my mind. Next steps will be prepping the two turnouts, wiring the frogs and feeders, and laying the track. 

Learning Points:

• Backdrops and presentation are important to me
• Mocking up in full size is helpful
• Operations style is important from the begining in planning
• Add minimum straight transitions between curves and turnouts