Ingleton: Scenery, Rolling Stock, and Operations Update

 

Swift reefer in front of Associated Grocers warehouse

Since my last post, I have finished ballasting the track and started some operations on the Ingleton shelf. In doing so, I have made some progress and have discovered the need for some focus. In this post, I hope to define the next steps for myself, as well as review track ballasting. 

First of all, Ingleton is freelanced other than it is designed as a possible Inglenook switching puzzle or game. It is set in the 1930s to be able to use some of my rolling stock collection that would not be found on the 4th Subdivision, my larger railroad set in 1954 and still in design phase. Initially, I have been using switch lists to structure some switching on Ingleton, which I am imagining to be several spurs at the edge of a yard set in the Pacific Northwest. My 0-6-0 yard switcher backs in with three cars to be set out at specific locations and with instruction to pick up the three cars from the spur tracks; a fun, short session. The next step may well be to figure out how to set up the Inglenook game. 

To get to the point where I can explore implementing the Inglenook rules, I need to enlarge my collection of rolling stock. This doesn't mean buying more, but building some existing kits and making sure that some of my existing rolling stock is up to standard. That in turn requires revisiting what those standards might be. A focus for the next month for me and a future blog post may well be an exploration of those standards and the process of making sure at least eight pieces of rolling stock are ready. As I have quite a stash of unbuilt kits and cars in need of repair or upgrade, I may end up with more than the minimum, adding some variety to the play. 

As mentioned before, I have finished the ballasting on the Ingleton shelf. I worked slowly and carefully, applying materials for just a few feet at a time. This approach, using actual stone materials, works well with what I feel are acceptable results. I may want to later revisit the ballast to add airbrushed effects. At one of the modeling Zoom sessions that I attend, Dick Bradley pointed out that what I thought was reddish rust is actually brake dust. That color, soot or oil, and spillage from rolling stock are all textures that might be applied later. While I like the real stone ballast, when I move on to the 4th Subdivision, I may change the proportion to lighten the final mix just a bit. At this point I will pick up from the last post with a review of how I ballast track. 

Ground cover along the tracks

After my last post describing ballasting between the rails, I worked my way along all the track on the Ingleton shelf, adding a layer of basic ground cover along the track. I first painted  a stripe of white glue along each side of the track and then applied a mix of ground covers. The main three that I applied were Woodland Scenics Blended Turf Earth Blend, Scenic Express Medium Natural Soil and Dirt, and Woodland Scenics Blended Turf Green Blend. I then applied 70% Isopropyl Alcohol and Scenic Glue with medicine droppers. I then sprinkled on more of the ground covers in light areas. 

Ballast applied between the rails and the ground cover

The next step was to apply my ballast mix between the outside of the rails and the (now dry) ground cover along the tracks. Using a plastic spoon, I applied the ballast along the outside of the rails. Then, using a soft brush, I brushed the ballast off the tie ends and the dirt and greenery along the tracks. I pinched on a bit more in light spaces and made sure I was satisfied before applying the alcohol wetting agent and scenic cement with droppers. In applying either material, it is safer to move the dropper along the rail above the ballast and along the ground cover below the ballast, allowing the materials to wick into the ballast. 

Learning Points:

• MR's Cody Grivno's approach to ballasting works well for me.
• Painting the tie tops and using real stone ballast provides acceptable realism.
• A slightly lighter color ballast and applying additional color or texture are next steps 

Ingleton Shelf: Scenery Started

This recent photo was taken with the scenery cement still wet

In my last post I mentioned starting scenery around the Associated Grocers warehouse, so that is what I have done. While the track plan was designed primarily to facilitate the Inglenook switching puzzle, my intention has been to also represent more prototypical operations with the three stub sidings servicing the warehouse and associated team tracks. I also wanted to work on developing realistic scenery techniques that might translate to the larger railroad. 

To hide the inherent flatness of the plank and the mainline look of the cork roadbed, I applied Sculptamold around the edges of the cork and painted it after it dried. One problem of using the narrow shelf and the Inglenook track plan involves a not quite large enough space for the future loading dock for the team track. By adding some raised fascia on the ends and building a couple of different styles of track bumpers, I hopefully solved the imminent  problem of rolling stock careening off the shelf. In this photo, one can see the first use of the tentative ballast color for the shelf and at least part of my future railroad. 

Instead of the generic Woodland Scenics grey made from walnut shells that I have used in the past, I am experimenting with a different mix on the Ingleton shelf. I am leaning towards a mix of two parts Arizona Rock and Mineral Company's #1152 Empire Builder to one part Express Scale #50 Blended Ballast as a starting point. In studying my GN Morning Star book, https://www.amazon.com/Great-Northern-Color-Vol-Lines/dp/1582481849, the color of the ballast varied from location to location as well as from various track types, mainline to siding. Airbrushing rust and soot colors over the track and ballast is another approach suggested by studying the prototype photos in Hickcox's book. 

On the shelf, I have continued with the ballasting approach suggested by Model Railroader's Cody Grivno that I reviewed in an earlier post. He starts by spreading the ballast between the rails,  brushing it off the ties and web of the rail, and applying wetting agent and scenic cement with an eyedropper from the outside. He lets that step dry before attempting to ballast outside the rails or on the shoulder of the cork. In the photo, one can see my use of a soft brush to clear off the tops of the ties. In my most recent session, I went ahead and applied other scenery along the side of track in the team track area. I used a mix of brown and cinder ballast along with Express Scale's Medium Natural Soil & Dirt as well as several other ground foams to establish the team track area. If I am not happy with the result, I can always add another layer. 

This shelf is really quite freelanced, with less specificity than the 4th Subdivision. It is set in the west in the 1930s. As I work to improve my skills, I am finding that having a prototype to work from leads to significantly more realistic results. I recently found a prototype source that I can work from or at least be inspired by on this shelf and in planning the new version of the 4th Subdivision. The Cornell University Library has a set of over one-hundred photos from 1960 taken in yards and sidings of the Great Northern in Everett and Seattle here. I printed one out and had it available while working.

The next steps include some very basic ground cover along the rest of the track and ballasting the track. I do not like the abrupt end of the flat seen in the photo. For that issue, I have a couple of ideas, but I just am not sure. I have ordered a loading dock kit and several tie piles from Blair Line for the team track area. Whether I will add additional structures or go with just scenery such as a small cut, a dirt road, or berm with trees is up in the air. For now, I may just complete the ballasting and as suggested by Mindheim's blog post, spread some Heki grass fiber over the brown paint, and start focusing on developing the operations. 

Learning Points:

• Prototype sources are helpful even in creating realistic scenery
• Roads, scenery, and structures should be considered in original planning
• A custom, quality ballast mix adds realism

Associated Grocers: Part 3

Although the surrounding scenery needs work, the grocery warehouse background structure is complete, As mentioned previously, several additions were needed to help highlight the loading dock and its sure spots.  

I printed out several sets of 1, 2, 3, 4 numerals for signs to label the doors as specific sure spots. I tried for a happy medium between large enough for an operator to read them easily and small enough for a somewhat realistic scale size. I found 8 pt. font size to approximate that happy medium. For the font I chose "Futura" as it is from the late 1920s and, as a sans-serif, it is easy to read. My attempts to create a border around the numerals did not work well, so the signs are just black numerals on a white background. My application technique was basic: white glue on the back of the tiny cut-out paper rectangles with the signs brushed into place with a clean damp brush followed by a light application of a gray wash.

I decided that Ingleton shelf would be a reasonable place to try out Woodland Scenics' "Just-Plug" system. I included their "Lights and Hub" starter kit and power source with an online order, but found I would either have to drill a large hole through my building's wall or resort to splicing/soldering. So, I spent more money on their gooseneck wall lights and installed two over the loading dock. While the system is pricey, it is relatively easy to add to it. Plus the hub has the ability to dial in the intensity of individual lights. I will wait to make a final decision on the value of the system until I add more to it. 

The next steps will be to fit the building into the scene with first applications of surrounding scenery and adding more details. I can feel accomplished in that I actually finished the building, but I also realize that I still need more practice. The building corners are not square, several joints are less than perfect, and at least one window has an obvious glue smudge. On the other hand, this is a background building on a practice plank built to increase skills and self awareness, not a contest entry.

Gumption Traps and Jack Burgess Solutions

I am building the Ingleton shelf partially to judge amounts of time, energy, and motivation needed for various aspects of model railroading as part of the self-analysis recommended as a first step in designing a model railroad. In my last post I mentioned that building the Associated Grocers building is taking longer than I expected. Not maintaining expected progress and faltering motivation are issues I discussed much earlier in a post on modeler's block. 

In thinking about this over the last week or so, I started remembering a concept from a book I read decades ago. "Gumption traps" are a concept from Robert Pirsig's Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance from 1974. In this post, I will explore the concept, how it might apply to model railroading, and some possible solutions, including some suggestions made in several Jack Burgess videos.

Gumption can be defined as initiative or the energy and determination to accomplish something. Pirsig's concept of gumption "trap" can be thought of as those things that block or stifle gumption. They can sap energy, undermine one's belief that success is possible, and cause one to falter in drive to complete progress or even get started. Pirsig identifies two kinds of gumption traps: external ones that he calls "set backs" and internal ones that he refers to as "hang-ups."

Set Backs:

• Skipping an earlier step: Because the plastic parts were never washed, the paint scuffed off the finished model.
• Can't get a needed part: It's on backorder from Walthers with an unknown timeframe.
• Facing a step that one doesn't know how to do or even find out how to do: The screw is stripped to remove the boiler, so how do I clean the dried up grease from the gears?
• Health or age issues: Between tired eyes and shaky hands, can I even do this any more?
• Comfort/environment issues: The attic was too cold in the winter and too hot in the summer.
• Unexpected expenses: One clear, eight foot 1 X 3 is ten dollars plus tax?
• Oops: This one has almost infinite examples.

Hang-ups:

Hang-ups are personal quirks or psychological issues. Pirsig discusses three: "ego, anxiety, and boredom." Ego can be seen as an unrealistically high self evaluation where new facts or situations aren't considered and asking for help isn't an option. Anxiety is fear of failure. I suspect this is what keeps me from finishing the last steps of things in life and model railroading. Somehow I find "I really like how that is going, but its not quite done yet" (and it never gets done) preferable to the possibility of "I really messed that up." Boredom can be the result of not seeing something freshly or being able to achieve a flow state. Boredom can in turn result in tunnel vision or less than desirable results. (Pirsig's main point was around the meaning or philosophy of "quality" with the concept of gumption trap as a smaller component of his argument. I think I might have to reread his book to see where "good enough" fits in my personal philosophy of quality.)

Solutions: 

In general, most possible solutions to gumption traps revolve around learning how to acknowledge and adjust to them or avoid them. 

While Jack Burgess does not mention or refer to gumption traps in any way, he certainly pinpoints some ways to adjust to and avoid some of my model railroad gumption traps in several of his model railroading videos, particularly Get Organized and Tricks to Better Models. Here are a few from Get Organized:

• Commit to just 15-30 minutes every day
• Have all the parts on hand (perhaps put yourself on the stockpile to hoarding continuum) 
• Have all the tools on hand at the workbench 
• Be able to find what you want
• Stock what you will need
• Use an Optivisor

The Tricks video stresses the use of jigs. If one needs multiples of a sub-assembly creating a jig is not an extra step, but a time saver leading to more consistent results. As I get older, my always shaky hands are getting worse. Finding ways to utilize a stable "third hand," create a temporary jig, or to stabilize my hand may prevent frustration.

This post may have strayed from model railroading into pop philosophy and psychology, but it was a useful exploration, at least for me!

Associated Grocers: Part 2

 

Continuing on with this structure build, I scratch-built a loading dock, one of the next steps mentioned in my last post, intended as a feature of the Associated Grocers warehouse. 

As I planned on using scale lumber that I had on hand, a first task that I needed to tackle was unpacking and organizing my strip wood. Having asked my wife's family to save their paper towel tubes to add to the ones we collected, I inserted them into a box on a workshop shelf along with a sketch labeling their contents. I also updated my reference table of scale to actual measurements. Knowing what I had on hand and the measurements of the warehouse and track location, I went ahead and drew up plans for the dock seen at the beginning of this post. 

While drawing  the scale plans, I also created a cut list of how many pieces of each size of "lumber" I would need. I installed a new blade in my Chopper and rotated the self-healing mat. Then I went ahead and started cutting all the pieces, including a few extra of each size. The Chopper is a real time saver, and it allows for consistent and accurate cuts. While saving time, I always remind myself to not rush, as the user must pay attention to that sharp razor blade while pulling the finished pieces out. 

After cutting all the lengths of stripwood, the next step was to stain them all. The stain I had on hand was Hunterline's "Raw Umber" weathering mix. While applying it full strength, it is a warm dark colored stain. Jumping ahead of myself here, after assembling the dock, I was not happy with the final color. At the time I let the pieces dry overnight, and went ahead with the assembly of the loading dock. 

After the the strip wood had dried overnight, I started  assembly of the dock. While I found that my shaky hands were a bit of a hindrance, I still got into a zone with glueing the loading dock together and never stopped for "in progress" photos. I first taped down my scale drawing on my workbench's plate glass and then taped a sheet of wax paper over the drawing. I used wood glue applied with a toothpick for assembly. I gathered the tools I planned to use: two squares, an older Stanley square with a heavy metal base and a small Zona square, and a pair of tweezers. I glued up the 8" X 16" frame right over the drawing. I then spread enough of the glue for around four or five of the deck boards. Using the base of the Stanley as a backstop or partial jig and the Zona to square up the just applied deck boards, applying the individual boards went smoothly and quickly. After the deck and frame had a chance to set up, I turned it over to glue in the posts. As I mentioned earlier, after the loading dock was completed, I was not satisfied with the dock color. I sanded the surface of the deck to lighten it somewhat and applied a light wash of a different color. I am thinking it it is an acceptable solution, but not ideal.

As seen in the photo above, The kitbashed Associated Grocers warehouse is close to completion. To get to this state I completed several steps in addition to building the loading dock. I glued in the windows and doors, attached the clear styrene window glazing, taped masking tape behind some of the windows to represent window shades, and fit black construction paper behind the windows. I cut and fit a styrene roof for the main structure adding simulated tar paper and several vents. I painted and glued on the roof over the loading dock from the Walthers kit. Also, I used the concrete steps from the kit, but the paint I used appears too light in the photo. An easy solution will be to apply the same wash that I applied to the foundation. To get this photo I had to add some side lighting, as the roof over the loading dock creates a shadow hiding the loading dock and doors which should conceptually be the focus of the building.

The next steps all revolve around highlighting rather than hiding the loading dock area. First of all, I need to continue down the rabbit hole of adding lighting. I ordered several components of the "Just Plug" lighting system, but once I had them, I found a major problem. Yesterday, I traveled to a brick and mortar store not too far from our home (Trains and Lanes in Easton) to pick up some additional components. The loading dock needs some details in addition to lighting. As this structure is intended to provide some sure spots to add operational interest, I also need to add some signage numbering the doors.

Learning Points:

• Experiment with stains ahead of time and develop a "go-to" mix.

• Remember the purpose of the building in making design and construction decisions.

• This project is not reflective of actual time spent in structure building; unpacking, organizing, and waiting for materials all ate up time and energy. 

  

Associated Grocers: Part 1

 I am kitbashing a background building to provide several sure spots for switching on the Ingleton shelf. I placed the walls of the partially completed structure in place for this in-process shot of the Associated Grocers warehouse. 

I started with parts from Walthers Cornerstone kit 933-3760 and taking measurements of the space between the back rail and the backdrop. The kit comes with two long walls with multiple loading doors. I chose the one with four garage type doors. I experimented with several other bits of walls from the kit to come up with my final combination. Truth be told, I asked my wife to choose the option she liked best. I cut several wall sections to fit with a razor saw and tried my hand at welding them together with Plastruct Plastic Weld solvent cement with support strips behind the joint. To get to what I hope to be the correct height of the doors I added a strip of .080 X .080 styrene along the bottom due to not using the Walthers base. While fairly satisfied with the results, the right angle corners are not perfect. I plan to order some City Classics corner braces before tackling my next plastic kitbash. 

Here, the walls are completed and washed with isopropyl alcohol. The doors and windows were trimmed from the sprues, edges sanded, and washed down with alcohol before I mounted them to a paint stick with painters tape. As I don't have my paint booth set up yet, I took them out to the garage to spray with rattle can primers. I used Rust-Oleum 2X Ultra Cover Primer in "Medium Grey" for the walls and loading dock roof components and 2X Camouflage "Deep  Forest Green" for the doors and windows. 

After the primer dried overnight, I went ahead and masked the areas of the walls that were concrete. I watched several Jason Jensen videos before tackling this project, with one called Working with Plastic Brick suggesting sponge painting the brick with three or four colors. I ended up just using three of the four colors shown in the photo: Dark Chocolate, Honey Brown, and Red Barn. Following his suggestion I used a sponge, rotating it so no pattern would show up and just allowing the colors to mix on the sponge. After the craft paints dried, I applied a wash of Vallejo Model Wash "Grey" over the entire wall.

After the wash and brick colors had thoroughly dried, I removed the masking tape and proceeded to try to paint the concrete foundation, window sills, and the roof trim seen to the left in the photo with just the primer applied. With this step, I made a mistake, but managed to push ahead and rectify it. Along with several kinds of solvent cement, I had ordered concrete colored model paint from Yankee Dabbler. I ordered True Color 801 flat brushable acrylic paint. It is an acrylic paint, but a solvent based acrylic paint. "Thins with acetone," I said to myself, "that's weird." But of course, I went ahead and started brushing it on. Well, big mistake! While the concrete sills worked okay with just one brushstroke, the foundation and roof trim that needed several brushstrokes soon turned into a mess. The acetone based solvent was so "hot" that it rewet the primer and it all started to turn into a sticky mess. After letting it dry, I repainted the foundation with a warm grey color that I made by mixing several craft paints. After that dried I brushed on a thin application of Vallejo Dark Grey Model Wash over the foundation.  

The next steps will be scratch-building a wooden loading dock, attaching the roofs, and installing the doors and window. 

Learning Points:

• I should order some City Classics corner braces or try another approach to corner bracing and gluing.

• I should also thoroughly investigate new products or at least try them out on scrap material before using them. 

New Year & New Version of the 4th Subdivision Rationale

New version of the sketch map of the 4th Subdivision

Many of the model railroad design pundits suggest the importance of placing the railroad on a map and creating its backstory or as Iain Rice calls it, the "rationale." Today's New Year's post includes a first draft of both.