Nooksack: Wiring Complete and Checked

Since my last post I have checked off more from my to-do list with only one real hiccup.  

I moved the NCE DCC system to the shelf under the Nooksack Module. As the railroad grows, I will have four power districts, but the two NCE EB1s that I already have will be fine for now. The LED lights and the DCC system are all on a surge protector plugged into the new circuit in the basement. So, the railroad can be turned on with one switch. On the day that I set up the command station, I tested the track and had power to all the tracks. I also plugged in the Touch Toggles, and after adjusting the spring wire of the one turnout that I moved last spring, all the turnouts appeared to be working. 

The next day, I fit the Touch Toggles into the revised control panel, cleaned the track, and unpacked the throttles. Well, when I plugged in either of the throttles, the screen did not advance past the version, date, and time screen. After contacting some folks from my old NMRA division and exploring online, I replaced batteries without any better results. Finally, I unplugged the cable from the command station to the UTPs and plugged a throttle into the command station directly. Eureka, it worked. Troubleshooting the next day, I discovered that despite being "sure" that I had run the cab bus cables perfectly, I had actually plugged a cab bus cable into the wrong side of a UTP. With that correction made, I was back on track. Today, I ran a locomotive and a few cars around successfully. 

I have some track to prep and paint, and the masonite backdrops are ready to paint the sky color. However, I think that I need to prioritize a final plan for the east staging. One idea that I have already explored is to use the narrow, hollow-core door from our bathroom remodel. Do I want to learn how to wire through foam and hollow door? Or, do I want to use a technique that I am familiar with? I don't want to spend a lot of money for a temporary staging module, so the next question is, "What do I have on hand already?" That's not just for benchwork, but also track. Also, some of the big interrelated steps (operations, scenery, and structures) while in one-town mode need to move from notions to a plan!

 

Nooksack in Place: Finalizing the Installation

 

In my last post I contemplated how straightforward my checklist of tasks would be. So far, I have been able to deal with potential stumbling blocks by shifting the order of tasks a bit and buying a new tool. In this post, I'll break down the steps I took to finalize the installation of these first sections and craft a plan for the next few steps.

Checking the benchwork for level and the legs for plumb was not only the first step, but also a recurring step. What became the next or second step was to screw the benchwork to the L-girder seen lag screwed to the stud wall in the back of the snapshot to the left. I made sure to label the locations of the drywall screws up through the L-girder with arrows in red Sharpie. I needed to start attaching the 1/8" masonite backdrop as well during this process. In the back, I attached the backdrop to the studs with panel brads. On the other hand, I used drywall screws with finishing washers to screw the backdrop to the back of the benchwork as the backdrop turned the corner. 

At that point I attempted to bolt the legs in place with 1/4" carriage bolts. I had the bolts on hand, but when I started to drill the holes, I found that my drill motor with the bit installed would not fit between the benchwork cross members. A quick trip to the local Harbor Freight, and I had the solution: the ninety-degree angle attachment. So far, it worked quite well. All of the legs of the Nooksack modules were bolted in place with two bolts per leg. 
 

After sanding the seam and applying fiberglass tape, I went ahead and hung two LED fixtures that I had on hand. The one on the left is a 32" light from the Meadville layout, the one on the right is a four foot fluorescent fixture with 5000K LED replacement tubes. The color is obviously different. I also have 4300K LED tubes in a different fixture. I will experiment with replacing one or both of the 5000K with 4300K.

Now that Nooksack is lit, I can start mudding the seam and visible nail heads. With the benchwork installation finalized, I will move the command station and start the process of completing and checking the wiring. 

 

Nooksack: Behind Schedule, but Moving Forward

With my wife's help today, the Nooksack backdrops and modules are in place! Now I can finalize the installation of both by going through this checklist:

• Checking for level
• Bolting rather than just clamping the legs in place
• Screwing the benchwork to the L-girder along the back
• Nailing and screwing the backdrop panels in place
• Taping and mudding the first coat on the seam and nails in the backdrop

Then I can move on to some other important first steps:

• Instal the existing LED lights over the benchwork
• Move and set up the DCC command station 
• Set up the control panel and touch toggles
• Check all electrical
• Track Power
• Cab bus
• Tortoise power and action
• Identify and fix any issues

In theory these should all be fairly straightforward tasks. We shall see. Then I can move on into the next phases following the TOMA approach. I have some ideas for most of these, but I really wanted to get Nooksack working before going too far with any of them.

• Staging
• Scenery and structures
• Operations
• Rolling Stock
• Presentation: Valance, skirting, floor paint etc. 

Wiring Updates on Nooksack TOMA project

Wiring diagram for Nooksack

Spending some time with the Nooksack modules, particularly dropping new feeders for the track, I have been thinking about my approach to wiring for the railroad in general. First of all, I really appreciate how the TOMA approach allows me to wire without crawling around under the railroad. Beyond that, electrical work such as wiring a model railroad is not an aspect of the hobby with which I came with a lot of experience. Continued skill building is a goal for me. So, I will discuss three phases (electrical pun!) of wiring updates and skill building in this post. I continue to deal with attempting to improve my soldering skills with notoriously shaky hands. I find I am revisiting the electrical standards that I initially established for the Meadville attic model railroad.  The most recent consideration is proactively thinking about the NMRA AP and how it can be a guide to improvement in range of skills. 

Soldering with Shaky Hands

I wrote about improving my skills for bulletproof track and electrical work on my initial practice plank in an earlier post. Complicating my desire to improve my soldering and wiring skills, my always shaky hands are getting worse as I age. In the photo seen here, I displayed the tools that I used in soldering feeders to several sections of revised track. I find that the more that I can stabilize the items that I am soldering the easier it is to get a quick and clean connection. I added locking tweezers and adjustable clamps to the collection to do just that. Pre-tinning the items to be soldered, making sure that they are "clean" (hence the addition of the scratch brush to polish the rail) before tinning, and using thinner solder all help as well. Clamping down my badly balanced soldering iron stand and using higher quality wire strippers make the process move efficiently and allow me to approach the task calmly and more confidently. Another subtle change to my approach is to attempt to set everything up so that I can solidly rest my forearms on a surface to pivot my hands holding the iron and solder into position. Soldering is still not my forte, but I am improving. 

Electrical Standards for the DCC Bus Revisited

Early on with the Meadville attic railroad, I set up some wiring standards as seen in this post from 2015. I have not changed them much, but I want to restate them as I begin the newest version of the 4th Subdivision.

1. DCC bus will be #14 gauge Red and Black wire.
2. Track polarity will be Black "out" or towards the aisle.
3. Track feeders will be #22 Red and Black with new applications soldered under the rail. 
4. Feeder connections will be suitcase connectors (3M "Scotchloc" IDC 905).
5. Bus connections between modules will be Eurostyle terminal strips
6. As I establish power districts, some standards may vary. Longer DCC bus wires may be #12 twisted red and black. Screw type barrier strip terminal blocks with soldered spade lugs may be utilized. 

NMRA Achievement Program: Model Railroad Engineer--Electrical

While I am not positive I will actually attempt the AP Electrical, it provides guidelines and structure for improving skills and doing solid work. In addition to proactively documenting in case I may choose to attempt it, having good records in case of the need for troubleshooting in the future is solid practice. In addition to using this blog, I may create a binder really focused on the AP electrical guidelines. Without going too far into the weeds with the AP here, two areas that Nooksack meets are Section D: Propulsion circuitry diagram of section A and Section B. 1. Turnout. The diagram shown at the beginning of this post is a first step towards diagraming the the "Propulsion Circuitry" of the entire railroad. 

Section B of the requirements includes wiring and demonstrating three of a number of items including turnouts. The Nooksack modules have seven Peco Elecctrofrog turnouts. In the photo of one upside down seen here, the steps I took to prep the turnouts to have powered frogs can be identified. I clipped the two wire jumpers and used insulated rail joiners to insure that the powered frog was properly gapped. 

At the same time, I soldered jumpers between the closure rails and stock rails. I also soldered a green feeder to the underside of the now isolated frog area, assuming that I remember to use insulated rail joiners at the point rails when installing the turnout. 

In the schematic seen here, one can follow how the green frog feeder wire is routed to the SPDT switch in the Tortoise by Circuitron switch machine used in the Nooksack modules. When the switch machine is thrown, the internal SPDT changes the polarity of the frog. One aspect of wiring the Peco turnouts in this manner is that the wire spring in the actual switch must be removed. Because the spring changes the speed at which the turnout is thrown by the motor versus the speed of the SPDT switch changing the polarity of the frog, a short is likely to happen with the wire spring left in place. 

This schematic drawing is also needed as a supplement to the "Propulsion Circuitry" diagram seen earlier. In that diagram, the gaps and switches needed for the powered frogs are represented by the shorthand green rectangles which in turn are shown in more detail in this schematic. 

Now, instead of explaining, writing, and drawing, it is time to talk my wife into helping me spin the modules one more time and connect the new feeders to the bus wires and call the propulsion wiring on Nooksack finalized. 

Staging Plan for Nooksack TOMA

Initial track plans for Nooksack temporary staging

 In my last post while setting a goal of the end of January for the Nooksack sections to be in place, I put several other aspects off to the near future. That was somewhat of an oversimplification. The staging planned for Nooksack, the first TOMA section of the 4th Subdivision, is definitely tied into  the wiring I am finalizing on the underside of Nooksack while up on the sawhorses. This post describes what I have come up with for the initial plan for staging. 

On the west end I will employ an existing fold-down staging module that we moved from Meadville. Seen in the photo to the left, it is admittedly small at 6 1/2" X 47." The three track section utilizes Peco Insulfrog turnouts and is powered by a phono plug. While not an ideal solution, it is by definition "temporary" staging. I have it. It is ready to install. While it will be the first to replace moving forward as it is too small, not really providing an adequate train length, it will allow me to get Nooksack up and running as well as moving forward with structures and scenery in the TOMA "methodology." As the 4th Subdivision plan grows, I may later use it in its fold-down mode at the far eastern end of the line providing a staged link  to a logging railroad.

On the other hand, on the east end of Nooksack I am planning a larger and potentially sceniced staging section. While it will also be temporary, I envision it as being viable for a longer period of time and reusable later as the the railroad grows. My initial plan (seen at the beginning of the post) is based on a narrow hollow-core closet door we removed in our recent bathroom renovations. That door is 11 3/4" X 80" which will allow me to make sure that at least one track meets my "logical lineal" standards. (The increased passing track length at Nooksack allows for a longer train length which in turn needs to be matched with yard tracks and spaces between active switching.) 

Straightening the curve at the east end

I don't have the benchwork plans finalized for the door yet, but I am sure enough of the concept that I can make some tweaks to the Nooksack module end now, before installing it, so Nooksack will be ready. The photo shows my alteration of the track at the east end of the Nooksack modules. 

Now that I have a plan for the staging,  I can complete the new feeder drops at the ends of the Nooksack modules. Then, along with some backdrop and lighting prep and installation, I will be ready for Nooksack to slide into place. 

Nooksack To-Do List Part 2

 

Nooksack modules on edge on sawhorses

We are into a new year, traditionally a time to re-evaluate goals. A major point of the TOMA approach is to complete a section of model railroad in a timely manner. So one goal is to get moving on Nooksack, the first phase of the 4th Subdivision. Between the basement issues and the holidays, I hit a definite slowdown. Yesterday, Renee helped me lower the sawhorses and bolt on the small bridge module. While up on the sawhorses I can continue finalizing the DCC bus and feeders as well as the switch machine wiring without crawling around on the concrete floor. I might as well install the UTP cab bus panels and run the cab bus now as well. With just a few more hours of work the Nooksack modules will be ready to move into place. 

One of the basement issues, the slow leak in the water pipe over one of the staging locations, was finally repaired. I do have a little more prep work before installing backdrops behind the modules or setting up the DCC in the new location. I am hoping to have the benchwork in place, the backdrops installed, and the wiring to the track operational by the end of January. 

At that point I can move onto the next steps: staging, lighting, scenery and structures, rolling stock, and operations plans. I have some notions for all of these, if not specific detailed plans. Another of my goals (note the reluctance to use the term resolutions) is to post here more frequently . . . perhaps average three times a month rather than two. As I work on these next steps, I will have much to document. 

To-Do List: Nooksack TOMA

Well, the basement issues mentioned in my last post are still unresolved and have turned into a huge gumption trap (see my post from last February) that has set me into a huge unproductive funk. One of the solutions to gumption traps mentioned in that post is Jack Burgess's suggestion to commit to actual work on the railroad for fifteen or thirty minutes everyday. With my wife's help today, we took down the Nooksack ten-foot section and set it up on sawhorses behind my workbench. I have power to the workbench, so I can rig up some lighting to actually work on the Nooksack section. Hopefully incremental progress on the railroad will lead to incremental improvement to my mental state!

Small Steps To-Do List:

• Module down and on sawhorses
• Reinstall Tortoise for longer passing track turnout
• Check for and add feeder drops as needed
• Connect all drops to DCC Bus
• Install UTP cab bus panels
• Bolt on the small bridge module
• All electrical connections finalized
• Finalize planning and start installation of . . .
• Backdrop
• Lighting
• Valance
• Modules returned and in place!
• Control panel and touch toggles installed
• DCC moved and set up

I also have some not so small steps to work out, but I want to try to get back into a more productive and satisfying mode by making progress with these tasks. Let's hope my next post highlights some more of these steps completed.